2014 Weingut Tegernseerhof Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd
Delivery Included on 4 Bottles or More
It was an old bottle of F.X. Pichler Riesling from the Wachau region of Austria that convinced us we could never, ever love a Riesling more. It was that wine’s amazingly wrought, absolutely brilliant tension between the pure piquancy and intensity of the Riesling grape and its incredible sense of elegance and restraint. It was just……ravishing. But, despite my assertion that I’d had the best Riesling ever made, lightning can indeed strike twice. That moment happened again to us this past spring when we had the chance to try Martin Mittlebach’s Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd. He was showcasing a 2014 from his cellar for the trade, a vintage he said was showing perfectly, and whose attributes boasted both the of its remarkable terroir and one of the most progressive winemaking minds in Austria. Though that 2014 wasn’t technically for sale, a few of us, left slack jawed at the tasting, convinced Martin to send us some. It arrived today. Folks, this is a pretty sexy bottle of Riesling! Martin is the fifth generation to work at Tegernseerhof, a property with some 1000 years’ history and a beautiful steeply sloped estate sitting on nearly pure schist in one of the warmest parts of the Wachau. His approach mirrors all that we admired in that Pichler Riesling, too: an emphasis on the gorgeous minerality of the Loibenberg (also a Pichler site) terroir and a focus on restraint, precision and elegance rather than pure power or sweet fruit. If a wine could possibly seem luscious and rich while, at the same time, being gymnast-lean and graceful, this one pulls it off. Dry as a bone, its flinty, almost smoky finish is haunting, and to get there, you get to enjoy the essence of white peach, a fresh-picked bouquet of lemon verbena, a hit of jasmine flowers and the barest hint of wintergreen. Its youthful precocity now behind it, the flavors are gorgeously developed and ready to be enjoyed with a wide variety of different foods. Our colleague Matt, a chef in recovery, thought of grilling an arctic char with a spicy salsa verde, while I would grill some bacon-wrapped scallops and serve it with plenty of grilled Meyer lemon slices. So much to consider, and many more years left in this wine to consider it!
48 bottles in stock.