2017 Domaine Thierry Drouin Pouilly Fuisse Metertiere
Domaine Thierry Drouin is brand new to the US and is (fortunately for us) only currently sold here in the Bay Area. This stellar family-owned property is part of a small collective of growers and winemakers that is being imported by one export-minded partner, Paul Duroussay. Paul will one day take over his family’s property (whom he also imports), Coteaux des Margots, but is currently the driving force for bringing the collective’s grand total of eight wines to California. The reason? He fell in love with and married a girl from Alamo while making wine at Jeff Cohn Cellars in Sonoma. Now that he’s here for most of the year, he is helping to get distribution for this group of outrageously good producers from Burgundy, all with an eager next generation poised to take over.
With that, Thierry Drouin’s Metertiere (or ‘sharecropper’) label is a perfect introduction to the portfolio. This outstanding, estate-grown Chardonnay comes from a massive outcrop of limestone at the base of the iconic La Roche de Vergisson. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral French oak demi-muids, this is the classic style of Macon with an unctuous and creamy texture, but displaying the wonderful only-in-Burgundy kind of mineral-driven acidity that keeps it extremely refreshing and adds a touch of class to proceedings. Notes of toasted hazelnut, almond, yellow apple, pear, jasmine and honeysuckle are prominent, while beautiful stony mineral notes shine in the finish. The finish, by the way, is notable for its extreme persistence and is the cherry on top of a truly outstanding white Burgundy, the kind of value every lover of these kinds of wine craves.