Is Barolo going to the dogs?????  

One of the pioneers of organic viticulture in Piemonte, Pietro Berutti’s La Spinona is probably one of the best producers of Barbaresco and Barolo you’ve never heard of. But with one of the best old-school labels we’ve ever seen and the best name in the Langhe, La Spinona won’t stay a secret much longer. Named after the Spinone Italiano dog of truffle- and duck-hunting fame in the Piemonte (and, specifically, the very smart one named Baica who saved the life of Pietro’s son Gualtiero when he fell into the Tanaro river on a hunting trip), the Berutti family has farmed their holdings in the Faset MGA in Barbaresco since 1920 and purchased their holding in the Bergara-Pezzole MGA of Novello in Barolo back in 1994. This latter spot sits facing dead south on the back of the Novello hill as sort of a downhill continuation of Bricco delle Viole (one of our favorite spots!); a cooler, high altitude spot that has been very much favored by the recent string of warmer vintages. One of the few wineries grandfathered to be able to produce Barbaresco and Barolo in the same cellar, in this case near the town of Barbaresco, a Berutti wine, whichever it may be, will always be ultra-traditionally made with plenty of horsepower as well as an uncommon grace. This late-release 2016, now labeled after the cru instead of the winery’s founder, Pietro’s grandfather ‘Gepin,’ is a great reflection, not only of the Berutti winemaking style, but also the richness and heft inherent in this particular part of Novello. And, of course, the vintage- one of the best the area has ever seen- plays some small part in the wine’s success as well. This is a Barolo that wears its heart on its sleeve with intense bramble, spice and dark plum-hoisin on its nose with plenty of cedar-balsamico, cinnamon, soy sauce and floral notes besides. Full on the palate, it’s a nice big mouthful of lovely, lovely Barolo that I wouldn’t hesitate to open this evening (decanted) but will cellar for a very long time too. And, even if you’re not a dog lover, this is one of the coolest retro packages ever. Woof!  

Wine Enthusiast: Woodland berry, pressed rose and spice aromas mingle with earthy notes of forest floor and leather. Medium-bodied, smoothly structured yet racy, the savory palate features Marasca cherry, truffle, vanilla and star anise framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced while it closes on a hint of salted game. Drink 2026–2046. 94 points   

Vinous Media: The 2016 Barolo (Sori Gepin) is a powerhouse. A blast of dark cherry, plum, mocha, spice, lavender , cloves and leather hits the palate as this strapping, full-bodied Barolo shows off its assertive personality. This is not a shy wine by any means. It will appeal most to readers who enjoy old-school Barolo. 93 points    

James Suckling: Plenty of muscle in reserve here with compact aromas and flavors of dried cherries, violets and bright dried spices, such as green cardamom, as well as a lightly saline edge. Full-bodied and full of promise with a thick, spicy and lightly firm finish. Needs a bit of time. Try in 2023. 93 points