It’s not often we can say $120 a bottle is a ‘hot price,’ but when its Capanna’s 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, well, we think it is!  Capanna is, of course, one of Montalcino’s true blue chips with a history that goes back the very beginning of the Brunello appellation itself.  In fact, the late Giuseppe Capanna was one of the original founders of the Consorzio di Brunello di Montalcino.  Now in their fourth generation, it’s a property at the very peak of its powers.  One of the big reasons is, of course, geography. The Capanna farm sits on the slopes of Montosoli Hill, at the northernmost sector of the Montalcino appellation- a higher altitude and, importantly, one of the coolest zones in the entire region.  With summer temps climbing every year, this little hill has found itself as the perfect confluence of perfect climate and excellent grower, and thanks to properties like Livio Sassetti-Pertimali, Canalicchio di Sopra, Altesino, Valdicava and Capanna working these vines, Montosoli has become Ground Zero for a lot the top Brunellos being made these days.  Capanna farms their 20 hectares organically and works with extraordinary care in the cellar, producing, in the legendary 2016 harvest, three incredibly successful Brunellos.  The so-called Brunello Normale (‘basic’ Brunello) was one of our very best sellers when it was first released back in 2021 and the single-site Nicco was also a monumental effort that sold out almost immediately.  And now we have in our hands the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, probably the best-ever wine produced at this important property.  Made from the original vines planted on the estate around 1960, this is a modern day Brunello classic.  Not as showy now as the Brunello Normale was back when we first sold it, nor as elegant and polished as the sleek 2016 Nicco was, the Riserva is still probably superior to both thanks to its remarkable structure, extraordinarily vivid Sangiovese Grosso aromatics and savory, plush and very lively palate.  Not the biggest, baddest or highest scoring Brunello on the block, it seduces with understatement, obvious depth and a sense of gravitas rather than with the sheer bombast we saw in a lot of wines from this harvest; it’s a throwback to the style of wine that made Brunello di Montalcino one of the world’s great collectibles in the first place.  That being said, and this is also a testament to the new climate and a better sense in the cellar of how to handle Sangiovese’s tannins, with decanting, I am betting you will find this a marvelous glass of wine already and perfect tonight to accompany, say, a rare-grilled Tomahawk bistecca, a braised pork shoulder or a wild mushrooms and polenta dish.  And with a long-cooked Bolognese, it is one of the world’s best combinations!  We’ve managed to secure 42 bottles of Capanna’s 2016 Riserva at a remarkable price- one of the best we’ve seen out there, especially for a non-gray marketed wine.  After these, well, they’ll be gone.

James Suckling:  This has a gorgeous nose of orange zest, hazelnuts, cherry blossom, cherry stones, peaches, cedar and some spearmint. Firm, dense and structured, with a wealth of fruit and fragrance. Lengthy. Still tight and chewy. Best from 2025.95 points

Wine Advocate: The Capanna 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a medium-dark ruby color and shiny intensity. This Riserva is balanced and quite beautiful, showing that sharp clarity and freshness that only Sangiovese can deliver in cool and balanced vintages such as this. To the palate, the wine is rather restrained, showing a mid-weight approach and lots of crisp acidity on the close. This Riserva needs more time to open and a few more years of cellar aging. Fruit selection for this wine prioritizes the best clusters with smaller berries and looser bunches that are more resistant to damp and disease. The finished wine ages in large oak casks for four years. 94+ points