We seem to spend a lot of time talking about cellaring Brunello but not enough time actually drinking it. That’s a problem I sometimes face when looking in the cellar for something to drink as the grill gets hot and the steak sits ready to go on the flames. Here’s a recommendation for a wine you can grab this very evening and have out on the table by the time the meat is done resting- Barbi’s 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. No, this isn’t a cellar treasure at all- in fact the majority of its life still lies ahead rather than behind- but a recent bottle opened here revealed a wine that has grown into much of its youthful promise and has become a thoroughly lovely example of Sangiovese Grosso as its flavors are still youthfully vibrant but no longer reticent, tannic or inward looking. Barbi is, of course, one of Montalcino’s most venerable properties. Owned by the Cinelli-Colombini family since the 14th century, the estate, now looked after by the latest generation Stefano, has extensive holdings in some of the best exposures in the entire Montalcino appellation and operate a very traditional cellar that produces brilliant Brunello (and everything else) vintage after vintage. The 2017 began its life as the product of a very hot and dry vintage with lots of concentrated fruit and a good deal of rustic tannin. As time as gone on, though, all that copious dusky cherry fruit as grown into itself and the tannins have melded into the wine showcasing the surprising and pleasing fresh acidity that has been one of the unexpected features of the vintage. Dark and heady, the aromatics are lifted by that freshness onto a rich, silky palate with a gorgeous mouthfeel and really nice integrated tannins. If you like your Brunello on the precocious, early-drinking side, this is your wine! That’s not to say this won’t cellar further as I said above, the Barbi Brunello has the track record of aging graciously for many decades and the 2017 will be no exception. We managed to obtain a fair bit of this at a very nice price as the importer is making room for the 2020 that will arrive soon. Get that steak ready! Your wine is here.

Wine Spectator: This solidly built red is marked by bright black currant, black cherry, rosemary, iron and tar flavors. Shows strong grip on the finish from the burly and lightly astringent tannins, all the while remaining fresh. Best from 2025. 93 points

Robert Parker: The Fattoria dei Barbi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is quite rich and velvety in appearance and in sensation. The wine carries extra fruit weight that is linked to the warm and dry conditions of the vintage, and that richer core is a sounding board for ripe and plummy fruit aromas. I can smell the oak barrels too, and although they don't impart obvious spice or toast, they add soft, earthy contours to this full-bodied Brunello. This ample release offers an accessible personality overall. 92 points