Over time, a definite hierarchy of California sparkling wines has emerged, with the best achieving a level of sophistication and polish only previously thought possible in Champagne.  The very best, though, no longer try to mimic their counterparts in the Champagne region of France and, instead, try to best reflect the native conditions (terroir) under which they themselves are grown and made through the prism of Champagne’s time-honored techniques.  Our own favorites include the monumental J. Schram and Schramsberg Reserve cuvees from the Napa Valley and, of course, Roederer’s very impressive L’Ermitage from the Anderson Valley.  The difference between these two state-of-the-art California bubbles is the latter is about half the price of the former. Roederer was, by way of background, in 1982, one of the first Champagne houses to plant a flag in California.  Its ‘regular’ Roederer Estate Brut is really one of the best values you’ll ever find in Champagne-method sparkling wine in the states, but the cuvee they created to show the ultimate potential of an American sparkler is definitely L’Ermitage.  Early on, the winemaking team at Roederer decided that blocking or limiting malo-lactic fermentation during the starter wine’s primary fermentation would be the most effective way to keep their wines bright and crisp in California’s very un-Champagne-like climate and L’Hermitage’s outstanding natural acidity and balance have become as much of a trademark as its magnificent, persistent and very deep flavors.  The 2017 L’Ermitage fairly well blew us away with the immediacy of its hazelnut skin, warm bread dough and flinty mineral nose that leads to rich, forward flavors of quince, lemon verbena, crème brulee.  Long, long, long on the finish, this is special occasion sparkling at its very finest, as well as performing admirably well as an extravagant partner to richer fish and poultry dishes, Epoisse or other triple-crème cheeses or a luxurious caviar service.  We think of ourselves here as Grower-Champagne snobs but when an American sparkler tastes this good, well, there’s always a bit of this in our cellars too!  Only a limited amount at this very special price so it’s sorta now or never…..
 
James Suckling: Delightful citrus notes with yellow apple, faint white flowers, sourdough, brioche and a hint of hazelnut. Full-bodied with a very delicate and fine bead, and crisp acidity. Beautiful finesse with an amusing transparency and freshness to it. Very refreshing, too. Fine bubbles. Structured. Drink with meat. A blend of 52% chardonnay, 46% pinot noir and 2% pinot meunier. Five years on lees. 7.5 grams dosage. Drink or hold. 96 points
Wine Spectator:  Opulent yet detailed, with expressive pear and cherry flavors accented by roasted hazelnut, brioche and fresh ginger. Builds richness on the plush finish. 94 points