Sangiovese 90% - Merlot 5% - Cabernet 5%  For better or worse, some of us old-timers like to wax nostalgic about the wines of yesteryear, especially in Tuscany.  That is not to say we want to see the return of bad Chianti in straw-covered flagons, but, rather, we remember the days before flamboyant Brunello di Montalcino, seamless, silky Super Tuscans and uber-glamorous Chianti Gran Selezione became a thing:  Wines like this delightfully old school Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Located on the broad western slope of the scenic hillside town of Montepulciano, this is a venerable old property that the Gianelli family has farmed since the 1790s.  It’s a gorgeous spot, so beautiful, in fact, the vineyard has provided the backdrop for many movies and even a long-running Dolce e Gabbana television ad.  Organically farmed, the estate is planted to Sangiovese (the local variant of which is called Prugnolo Gentile or, simply, Vino Nobile), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon- the typical grapes for the production of making the esteemed Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  In this case, the best grapes from the oldest vines on the property are kept a third year in the cellar in a combination of neutral French oak barrels and old casks to be labeled as Riserva.  This is not a flashy wannabe wine critic special, rather this is an honest-to-goodness throwback style of Vino Nobile that harkens to a time before the appellation became an international celebrity- lighter in color, but rich in smoky, earthy, iron-infused cherries and berries.  We noted figs, plums, hoisin and dried fennel in there, all swirling around a dusky, savory core of Amarena cherry and mulberry.  That hit of buttery leather and mineral at the end is so pure and lovely and a sure bet alongside a bowl of the local pinci pasta and wild boar ragu!  Or a steak.  The thing is, the more we taste this, the more we compare its acidity and structure to that of a Nebbiolo-based wine and might also recommend it with rich braises like pork ribs slow cooked in tomato.  In any event, you can drink it tonight.  Please do!  But do consider having a few bottles in the cellar to open in a few years too!  Just a few cases left to sell.

Wine Spectator: A broad, meaty style, this is beginning to mellow, indicating plum, macerated cherry, leather, earth and iron flavors. Dense and solidly built, with a long, fresh finish. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2036. 2,500 cases made, 600 cases imported. 93 points

James Suckling: Savory and old-school in style with complex tertiary characters full of earthy berries, rhubarb and a hint of ginseng. Pretty full-bodied despite the lightness in color with chewy tannins and a tight finish. Austere and traditional. Drink in 2024. 92 points