2018 Antica Fratta Franciacorta Essence Satèn
If you followed our @prima_dublin Instagram during Brandon and my recent trip to Italy, you’ll already know all about the high-quality sparkling wines of Franciacorta DOCG in Northern Italy. This appellation couldn’t be any more picturesque; it’s right on Lake Iseo with mountains all around plus the snow-capped Alps towering in the background. Some of Italy’s finest sparkling wines are produced here, but only about 15% of them ever leave the country. There are some very exciting things happening here; a greater focus on organic and regenerative viticulture, village sub-zones which are currently awaiting final approval in Rome, and new topographical/soil mapping that is occurring thanks to the mapping genius of Alessandro Masnaghetti. We discovered something new and exciting on our trip as well - the wines of Antica Fratta.
Antica Fratta means “ancient thicket” in Italian. Tucked into the side of a forested mountain in the Monticelli Brusati northern section of Franciacorta, it was originally an old monastery that was transformed into a country villa in the 1850s. The owner, a knight and local wine merchant, dug wine caves right into the hill behind the villa. After his passing, the property and caves fell into disrepair. It wasn’t until the late 1970s that it was renovated to become the Antica Fratta Winery we know today, by the very well-known Berlucchi family, the OG pioneers of bubbly in Franciacorta. The caves, unusual for this region, provide additional space to age sparkling wines on their lees for longer than the appellation requires, and the bubbles are only released when the winemaker feels they are ready. It’s all about patience. At Fratta, they produce several styles of Franciacorta, but what all the wines have in common is lovely concentration and amazing elegance. They are also marvelous showcases of their unique terroir. It’s sunny here, but the cool Alpine winds blowing down and across the lake help keep temperatures in check and preserve freshness in the wines, even in the warmest vintages. Antica Fratta’s vines are grown on calcareous clay formed by the passing of a glacier. ‘Calcareous’ is the magic word here though; limestone helps maintain good drainage, which in turn keeps the vines slightly stressed in order to naturally lower yields and produce higher-quality grapes without sacrificing natural acidity. We were really blown away!
The 2018 Antica Fratta Franciacorta DOCG Essence Satèn is 100% Chardonnay, aged on the lees for 30 months, which is six months longer than typical for the designation Franciacorta Satèn. The Satèn style of Franciacorta is unique to the region. By law, it must be fewer than 5 bars of pressure so that the bubbles taste softer or more “satiny” on your palate, and it will always be a Blanc de Blancs Brut and aged for at least two years on the lees. This is a beautiful example of classic Satèn; white peach, and floral blossoms and a satiny, gorgeous texture complemented by an underlying note of crushed rocks and salinity. Its perfect level of acidity keeps it bright and fresh. A lovely drink with a platter of local salumi or, if you happen to live near Lake Iseo, a whole grilled stuffed trout! Both Brandon and I absolutely adored this wine and, now that the wines have finally made it to the states, we are very pleased to have been able to secure an allocation. Lovers of broad-palated, richer, softer Champagnes, for example, will adore this too.
The 2016 Antica Fratta Franciacorta DOCG Essence Rosé is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Nero, aged on the lees for 36 months and in bottle for another six months prior to release. Unlike Champagne which allows a percentage of still Pinot Noir to be added for color and complexity, Franciacorta Rosé must be made with sparkling wine only. Its depth and complexity comes from a slightly warmer climate that allows the grapes to ripen more fully while still maintaining great acidity, and some skin contact with the Pinot Nero prior to fermentation. This is a delicate but very complex wine with berry and citrus fruits, toasty brioche, and a creamy, persistent mousse. This was the other of our favorites, and because we couldn’t decide which we loved more, we’ve decided to love them both! This gorgeous Rose drinks wonderfully as an aperitivo or to celebrate, say, the arrival of a Tuesday. With food, though, this will truly come alive. We were thinking a duck breast with a bit of a cherry gastrique or the classic Risotto Milanese.
The Antica Fatta wines have just arrived in California although they made quite the debut, having been featured at last year’s Grammy and Academy Awards parties. If you are a lover of sparkling wine, you won’t want to miss trying these.
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