2018 Baricchi Barbera d'Alba 'Riva della Coda' 

This miniscule estate is making some of the most compelling wines we’ve tried recently.  Located in Neviglie, on the fringe of the Barbaresco appellation near the town of Neive, Natale Simonetta and his wife, Francesca have earned a cult-like following for their stunning Barbarescos (grandfathered into the appellation even though Neviglie technically doesn’t fall within) and their 6000-bottle production of Barbera d’Alba from a vineyard planted in 1954.  The Barbera is truly a stunner!  Aged for 24 months in smaller neutral ‘botti’ casks, it is, without a doubt, the most ebullient and exciting bottle of Barbera we’ve tried in a while.  Like Natale himself (an ex-world-class Motocross rider), this is bold, full of character and magnificently crafted.  Those expecting the classic sort of food-loving Barbera we normally love to promote in these pages might be a little shocked at its incredible color and stunning boysenberry, aromatics.  While not excessive, brassy or alcoholic, it’s incredibly rich and textual on the palate and, despite its beautiful, lively acidity, it just soars!  This is a bottle of Barbera that you’ll love all on its own as well as with the rib-sticking red meat sauces and other pasta dishes Barbera so much loves.  I once, infamously, called Barbera d’Alba grown in the Langhe and aged in wood ‘Zinfandel with great acidity,’ and this is what I meant….in every good way!  Drink now or keep a decade, this is not a wine that will care!  By the way, Simonetta’s best-known wine is definitely his 2016 Barbaresco Riserva ($99.99), a wine produced entirely from the very unique ‘Rose’ clone (or cousin) of Nebbiolo, the only such wine we know.  Our allocation is all of a case- now only 11 bottles after we gave in and drank a bottle over this past weekend.  In a word- WOW!  This wine’s rabid following in northern Europe keeps it a rarity in the United States and we think you should add a bottle or two to your Barbera if you want to find out what the fuss is all about.