They’ve been shoveling dirt on the Aussie Shiraz category for over a decade now but the fact of the matter is, just because the wines aren’t selling as well in the United States as they used to, it doesn’t mean the best properties in Australia aren’t still making great wine!  The classics are, indeed, still the classics.  And it was very exciting the other day to revisit one of Australia’s most classic wines and discover that the more things change, the more they stay the same.  Best’s has been making wines for a very long time- since 1867 in fact- when Henry Best purchased 73 acres in the Victoria township of Great Western and planted the Shiraz vines that would become the trademark for this very unique growing region.  Best’s Great Western wines have, over their many, many decades, earned the reputation as being among the most elegant and long-lived in Australia.  The rare and exciting Bin O, in fact, is often spoken of as Victoria’s answer to Penfold’s iconic Grange, albeit at a mere fraction of the Grange’s price but their standard bearer- Bin 1- is nearly as good and a fraction of the price. This is not the typical warm-climate Shiraz one might associate with South Australia.  These old vines show the cooler, more aromatic side of the Syrah grape with more freshness, elegance and elan.  Dark- actually really gorgeous to look at- the wine gives up whiffs of plums, blackberries and blueberry on the nose with fresh notes of black pepper, black licorice, graphite, cinnamon and violets on a medium-sized frame that finishes long and lovely.   Rich on the palate but juicy and lively too, it’s a wonderful rendition of a more cool-climate, complex style of Aussie Shiraz- one that emphasizes finesse over the raw power. Assertive enough for your best spicy-sweet ribs or a peppery steak, it’s also lithe enough to play well with less intense items liked grilled chicken breasts, pork chops or dishes with wild mushrooms. And it’s drinking great right now.   While there may not be a renaissance in Australian wine anytime soon here in the States, the Best keep on being Best, if you know what I mean.   Very highly recommended.  Wine Enthusiast: From one of Australia’s most treasured estates, this cool-climate Shiraz from western Victoria is a little meaty and mushroomy at first, the plum and currant fruit trailing just behind. It has cola-like polish from the oak influence and an underbelly of flowers and spices. Despite the fruit plushness on the palate, there’s still verve, freshness and a smudged charcoal texture to the powerful tannins. Drink now–2025. 93 points