2019 Cantina Lonardo ‘Contrade di Taurasi’ Irpinia Aglianico DOC
Contrade di Taurasi is owned by Sandro Lonardo, a local schoolteacher, and his wife Enza. They bottle Irpinia Aglianico, Taurasi, and small amounts of a white wine made from Grecomusc’, an indigenous white variety. Their vineyards are all exposed directly south, which is ideal, and are at about 1300 feet above sea level, which may explain how a wine picked in the beginning of November in a warm climate can come in at relatively modest alcohol- one of Aglianico’s secrets to its success. All of the Lonardo’s vineyards are in the official Taurasi zone, but more than half of the fruit is declassified to IGT Irpinia Aglianico. (Irpinia is the name of the larger region that encompasses Taurasi, like Langhe is to Barolo or Barbaresco) This not only improves the quality of the Taurasi, but also gives us an excellent, more forward, easier-drinking example of Aglianico to enjoy. Made from vines planted between 1985 and 1995, it’s macerated for around 20 days in tank and aged a year or so in oak puncheons. Sandro’s 2019 Irpinia Aglianico shows the distinctive flavors of the Taurasi growing area; blackberry, raspberry, red or yellow cherry and mulberry balanced with the grape’s naturally fresh acidity and an ephemeral, tough-to-describe savory volcanic soil character that’s totally unique. Rounder on the palate and drinking well now, there’s no reason at all not to enjoy this tonight, not only with lamb (maybe I am little too fixated on that combination) but also with wild mushroom dishes, earthy cheeses, smoked meats of any kind or even hamburgers off the grill. Cook them over wood or charcoal instead of gas, and you’ll enjoy the wine even more!
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