2019 Cascina Baricchi Barbaresco Riserva 'Rose delle Casasse'
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This miniscule husband-wife estate is one of the most exciting discoveries we’ve made in years. Located in Neviglie, on the fringe of the Barbaresco appellation near the town of Neive, Baricchi’s tiny cellar is very easy to miss. But Natale Simonetta and his wife Francesca have, over the past two decades, earned a cult-like following, particularly in northern Europe, for their stunning reds.
Grandfathered into the Barbaresco appellation even though Neviglie technically doesn’t fall within, they produce but two wines from the appellation, the best-known being the Barbaresco Riserva Rose delle Casasse, a one-of-a-kind Barbaresco produced only as a Riserva from the unique Rose clone (or, depending on who you ask, cousin) of Nebbiolo, the only such wine we know. The Rose clone—once nearly abandoned because of poor yields—is noted for its lighter color but intense spiciness. The Simonettas’ vines, inherited from Bruno Giacosa with whom Natale used to work, are well over 100 years old and ungrafted. One stipulation of the Giacosa inheritance was the promise that Natale continue to make a wine each year solely from these old Rose vines. There ain’t much of it but, what there is, is stunning!
We found the rich, powerful 2019 vintage simply breathtaking, its marvelous, deeply concentrated fruit now front-and-center but with an impressive display of young Barbaresco acidity and tannins too. This is the wine that put Baricchi on the map and we can definitely see why insiders all over Europe are searching it out! Our allocation is very, very small, and even smaller since I’ll be scarfing a bottle or two off the top. We don’t often recommend $100 Barbarescos but I might make an exception here.
James Suckling, 98 points: Austere Barbaresco with meaty, dark and vibrant nose. Fresh violets and roses are fully integrated with strawberries and dried cherries. Very savory and focused, with even a whiff of cinnamon and licorice. Full-bodied, it shines for the weight and again savoriness, sanguine depth. Tight-knit structure with firm, dusty yet integrated tannins and a polished finish. A lot of energy. Drink or hold.
Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points: The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rose Delle Casasse is a gorgeous showing from Cascina Baricchi, pouring a medium red garnet hue. The nose is expressive with bright red cherries, cranberries, cinnamon, dried flowers, and crushed earth. Medium-bodied, it is elegant and refined, with sneaky underlying structure that reveals itself gradually on the palate. The tannins are well-integrated, and the balance makes it approachable even now, though it clearly has the depth to evolve gracefully. 13,450 bottles were produced. Drink 2026-2046.
Vinous, 94 points: Some years ago, my dear friend and mentor Il Professore told me about an estate in Barbaresco I should visit. I did, and there I met Natale Simonetta, a former professional athlete who turned to winemaking after injuries forced him to retire from sport. Cascina Baricchi lies in Neviglie, which is actually in Moscato country. Although the winery is outside the Barbaresco appellation, the vineyards are in Neive and Treiso. Perhaps this unique set of circumstances explains why Cascina Baricchi remains under the radar. Natale Simonetta spent the early part of his new career working alongside Bruno Giacosa. From what I have been able to put together from several reliable sources. Simonetta sold Giacosa fruit and also bulk wine, including the parcel Giacosa bottled as a Red Label Barbaresco with no vineyard name in 1990. Today, Simonetta and his wife, Francesca, make a wide range of wines. As I have written here previously, some of those seem like a distraction, but there is no doubt the core wines can be superb. The flagships are the Barbarescos. His Barbaresco Riserva Rose delle Casasse is made from 100% Rose clone, which is seldom seen alone in Piedmont today. Austere Barbaresco with meaty, dark and vibrant nose. Fresh violets and roses are fully integrated with strawberries and dried cherries. Very savory and focused, with even a whiff of cinnamon and licorice. Full-bodied, it shines for the weight and again savoriness, sanguine depth. Tight-knit structure with firm, dusty yet integrated tannins and a polished finish. A lot of energy. Drink or hold.
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