I stumbled upon these two gems while leafing through an importer’s book and my eyes nearly jumped out of my head! Do these unicorns really exist? This blue chip

Barolo Cannubi from a vintage pretty much considered as one of the best vintages ever from the vineyard is a pretty tough one to find. And I’ve never seen it under $100! And the spectacular unicorn Monvigliero from an equally amazing vintage? Wow! Luigi Einaudi is, of course, one of Barolo’s most prestigious cellars , founded in 1897 by the very first democratically elected president of the Italian republic and as true an icon in Piemonte as you will ever find. Einaudi was a firm believer that modern agriculture would lift his native region from poverty and put his familial wealth where his mouth was by purchasing a farm in Dogliani and planting Dolcetto, gradually adding vineyards in the best-regard spots in the Langhe, sites in the likes of Cannubi, Bussia, Terlo and in Neive in Barbaresco. More recently they even added 1.5 hectares in the vaunted Monvigliero in Verduno, perhaps the most coveted vineyard in Barolo. The estate is now in its fourth generation and the wines are better than ever- paragons of the traditional style; wines as regal as the great Einaudi was himself. The 2016 Barolo Cannubi is a stentorian effort- deeply pitched, inward looking and, at its heart, a thoroughbred expression of Cannubi- the ultimate blend of power and elegance, polish and depth, aromatics and texture. This is the most classic of classic Barolos, though I’d give it more time to really grow into its substantial frame. It’s amazing! Now apply this same exacting growing and winemaking philosophy to the Einaudis’ much cooler Monvigliero and you get a different sort of wine- a wine with knee-buckling florals (violet pastilles, faded roses, jasmine?) and cooking spices like cloves revolving around a core of cherry confit, blueberry and lanolin. Leaner and more elegant but equally muscular at its core, this is the gymnast to Cannubi’s, I dunno, world class tennis player? Anyway, stupid simile aside, the 2019 Monvig is a compelling rarity that shows the cooler, dare I say, more Burgundian aspect of this unique spot as opposed to Cannubi’s more strident classicism. Both are truly outstanding achievements and as deserving of space in your cellars as they will find it in my own! The Cannubi price is excellent, by the way, while Monvig is, well, no one is giving away their Monvig right now. 

Cannubi Reviews:

Wine Enthusiast: Rose, exotic spice and dark-skinned berry aromas mingle with whiffs of menthol and new leather on this radiant Barolo. Firmly structured and loaded with finesse, the savory palate delivers ripe morello cherry, orange zest, licorice and tobacco before a crushed mint finish. Taut fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity keep it well balanced. Drink 2026–2036. Kerin O’Keefe. 96 points

James Suckling: Wow. This is real Cannubi, offering sliced ripe strawberries and dried flowers, such as roses, as well as crushed raspberries. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and reserved. Stealth is a word that comes to mind. Love it. Best in a long time. 96 points

Wine Spectator: A fresh, crystalline red, exhibiting flavors of cherry, strawberry, iron and tobacco affixed to a firm, unyielding backbone of dense yet refined tannins, finishing long and satisfying. Excellent balance. Best from 2023 through 2040. 833 cases made. 94 points

Monvigliero Reviews:

Keiran O’Keefe: Ripe dark-skinned fruit, cardamom, violet and new leather aromas lift out of the glass on this full-bodied, fragrant red. Structured and elegant, the enveloping palate offers ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, nutmeg and star anise wrapped in firm, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. 96 points

Wine Advocate: Here's an exciting new project from Poderi Luigi Einaudi that I have been looking forward to tasting ever since I learned this historic winery was lucky enough to secure fruit in what is surely the most sought-after MGA in the appellation, Monvigliero in Verduno. The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero Stefano Arienti 125 Anniversary Collection (with a minimalist artistic front label) needs time to open because the wine is rather closed on first nose. With coaxing and patience, it eventually opens to pressed rose, iris root, white licorice and wild berry. The tannins are grippy and tight. I went back to taste this wine several times from an open bottle over the course of 24 hours. 96 points

Wine Enthusiast: Framboise and cherry compote aromas lead, accompanied by sage and hints of new leather. The palate is lush yet structured, with the fruit held in place by the fine, yet firm, tannins. This solid wine will benefit from some time. 95 points