2019 The Walls 'Mahana' Syrah, Red Mountain, Columbia Valley
61% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 1% Viognier
Dry, hot eastern Washington State was, some thirty years ago, considered to be the next Promised Land (after the Napa Valley) for Cabernet Sauvignon and its brethren in America and, it’s true, the Columbia Valley and its environs have become the home for some of the most exciting Bordeaux-styled wines on the West Coast- in America, really. But, at the same time, it became obvious early on that the heat-loving grapes more associated with the Rhone Valley of France could do equally well, if not even better in this high-desert climate. And no sooner had a score of amazing Bordeaux chateau-like properties arrived on the scene, than many of those same properties developed Syrah-based programs too, often becoming, like in South Australia, intertwined.
At The Walls, the very intriguing, ultra-high-quality winery founded by retired tech exec Mike Martin, both his Cabernet and the Rhône varietals take center stage. In the Mahana, a micro-cuvee named after the founder of Freewater in the famed Rocks District of Milton-Freewater near Washington’s border with Oregon and Idaho, winemaker Suzanne Harryman co-ferments the Syrah, with a dash of the white Viognier to add a dash of charm to the notes of cured meat, olive tapenade and leather that is further fleshed out by 38% round, ripe Grenache. Fermented entirely on its own natural yeast, the finished wine was aged in larger format barrels, 20% of which were new, creating a gloriously and unabashedly voluptuous red with a core of beautifully articulated aromas and flavors that take it far from the ordinary into the realm of sublime. Syrah provides the white pepper, patchouli oil and violet pastille essence of the wine, as well as its formidable structure, while the Grenache adds a confit-like mid-palate and, oh, that 1% Viognier! Boo-ya! Drink now with richer fare like a wonderful grilled steak or those spicy, umami-rich ribs you’ve been saving for that summer barbecue you’ve been planning! So delicious. Cellar some too! Very highly recommended.
Jeb Dunnuck: The 2019 Syrah Mahana has a rocking nose of red and blackberry fruits as well as flowery incense, peppery spice, and sandalwood. It has a rounded, mouth-filling texture, full-bodied richness, and sweet tannins as well as brilliant balance, all pointing to a great Syrah that will have 10-15 years of longevity. 95-97 points
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