2020 Domaine du Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge La Crau 375 ml
Wine Spectator just made it their #7 Wine of the Year, too.
Another ultra-important 2020 southern Rhone release has just arrived, Daniel Brunier’s monolithic Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge. The vintage is, of course, already legendary for producing wines of classic structure, intensity and balance and this one is a barnburner. Many are already comparing this 2020 to the V-T 1978, maybe with a little of 1998’s fruit thrown in to enhance the bargain. Dark and dusky, the aromatics, even at this young moment of its life, are sensational and the palate is pure La Crau! This is a Vieux Telegraph for the ages. Comes to stock this Thursday.
Wine Spectator: #7 Wine of the Year: This shows a lot of aromatic appeal, with dusty earth and singed incense covering a well of fresh cherry and red currant. A gutsy, grippy style on the palate, with a cast iron spine bringing firm shape and underlying power. Slightly old-school in style, this still needs time to unfurl. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2025 through 2035. 94 points
James Suckling: This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold. 96 points
Decanter: Full, generous and broad. Acids are bright and vibrant, and there's a fine but dense weft of tannins through the wine. Great energy and salinity this year, this is particularly fine and balanced, with plenty of concentration and a long finish. All from La Crau and fermented in tronconic wood barrels. Élevage in foudre. Oldest Grenache bunches aren't destemmed. 96 points
Wine Advocate: Tasted as a tank sample of the final blend, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is a blend of approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties, with about 30% whole bunches used in the ferments. Marked by ripe cherries and hints of complex garrigue notes on the nose, it's full-bodied but also really elegant, with fine-grained, silky tannins, ample concentration and a long, surprisingly crisp finish. 93-95 points
Jeb Dunnuck: The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape also showed well, with a lighter, elegant style that still brings plenty of intensity. Black cherries, mulberries, dried violets, and loamy earth define the bouquet, and it's medium-bodied, balanced, and finesse-driven on the palate, with ripe tannins as well as a terrific sense of salinity on the finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15+. 94 points
Vinous: The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was vinified from partially de-stemmed grapes and aged in foudre. The 2020 La Crau displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age. 94 points
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