Wine Country: Italy

Wine Subregion: Tuscany

Wine Sub-subregion: Chianti Classico

#4 PRIMA’s ’24 for 24’ Best Wines Of The Year 2023 

Back when I started at PRIMA, some 30 years ago, the so-called new wave of quality wines from Chianti Classico could be summed up in ‘Three F’s,’ Felsina, Fontodi and Fonterutoli.’  Here were three traditional properties that broke from the pack by challenging the status quo and making enormous individual qualitative commitments that singularly helped give wings to the previously hidebound Chianti Classico appellation and guide the Gallo Nero through the transition from the ubiquitous straw fiasco to worldwide respect.  Now, over a quarter century later, the quality bar is much, much, much higher than it used to be, and Fattoria Felsina is still leading the way.  Felsina, from its beautiful home in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southeastern most outpost of the Chianti Classico appellation, has blazed one new trail after another, pioneering organic agriculture in the region and developing the market for single-vineyard offerings too.  Under the inspired guidance of Giuseppe Mazzocolin, this Sangiovese-only property has maintained a sterling reputation for outstanding terroir-driven wines that are still the envy of all, not only for quality but also value. The best way to experience the wonderful wines of Felsina is through their lovely Chianti Classico and the outstanding Berardenga Riserva, the much-ballyhooed 2020 of which has just arrived.  Sourced from both the sandy gravelly Albarese and the clay-y Galestro soils that comprise this estate of 14 separate farmhouses and vineyards, a Felsina wine is always dark, fragrant, savory and delicious.  2020  was a warm, generous harvest in Tuscany and the Riserva certainly has more volume and immediate appeal that we’ve typically tried here.  Aged for over a year in a combination of Slavonian oak casks and smaller used French oak barriques, it’s some pretty flamboyant Sangiovese. Endowed with an extra measure of color and, more importantly, the classic violet flower, iron-y mineral and dark earth notes typical of the region, it wowed us in a recent tasting.  Aromatic and really fresh in spite of its obvious plushness and weight, it’s a full-throttle Chianti packed with Sangiovese’s particular personality.  Ready to go now, it’s remarkably deep, balanced and will be perfect alongside all kinds of dishes whether it be a few slices of fresh Pecorino Toscana or a classic Florentine bistecca.  It’s a super serious, food-friendly Chianti that will also reward many years of cellaring too.  Very highly recommended.
Wine Spectator: #22 Wine of the Year, 2023 A solidly built red introduced by aromas of mint, lavender and wild rosemary. Shows cherry, raspberry, earth, iron, sanguine and tobacco flavors allied to an almost viscous texture as this cruises to the long finish. Impressive now, yet will be better in three to five years. Best from 2026 through 2045. 94 points
James Suckling:  A juicy and pretty wine with berries, chocolate, and bark. Subtle. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that are slightly chewy and austere now but will soften nicely with age. 94 points
Wine Advocate:  In a bottle with a black label, the Fèlsina 2020 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardenga shows an open-knit quality with soft fruit flavors of dark cherry and baked plum. Those fruit flavors are followed by pretty mineral notes and light spice. That openness and those sweet cherry flavors are characteristic of the warm 2020 growing season. The wine finishes with bright acidity that is typical of Sangiovese. 93 points