2020 Locanda Chardonnay, Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard, Los Carneros
On the heels of the absolutely crazy Locanda Beckstoffer Cabernet sale a few weeks ago (we sure wish we could get more) comes its very worthy successor, the same winery’s crazy good Locanda Chardonnay. Hailing from yet another Beckstoffer-owned vineyard, this full-on, large-and-in-charge Chard comes from the Carneros Lake Vineyard on the Napa side of Los Carneros- the site of many Reserve-level wines from the likes of Newton, Frank Family and many others over the decades. (anyone remember those fabulous Newton Unfiltered Chardonnays from yesteryear? This is like that.) The name Beckstoffer on a wine label means that, first and foremost, the grapes were immaculately farmed to create the maximum amount of concentration and flavor possible. It also means it’s going to cost more! In this case, due to circumstances I am sure the winery is not pleased about, that equation is only half true. The wine is sensational but we’re able to sell it for $25 less a bottle than the market! Coming as it does from the Napa side of Los Carneros, facing south, it gets plenty of bay breeze from the San Pablo Bay right over the hill and that insures the wine has enough native acidity to balance its rich, effusive tropical fruit and floral flavors. Really complex and fun to drink, it’s a Chard for lovers of the more luxurious, plusher side of the grape but it’s far more than just a pedal-to-the-metal Cali Chardonnay- there’s a nice sort of polish to the wine that takes it to the next level. This is a really nice find! Drink now with richer fare. I can see a grilled halibut and a pineapple-jalapeno salsa.
Lisa Perrotti-Brown: The 2020 Chardonnay Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard comes bounding out with bold notes of apricots, pineapple upside-down cake, and candied ginger with wafts of honeysuckle and cashews. The palate is medium to full-bodied with gregarious tropical fruit and loads of spicy accents, finishing with nice freshness and lots of bang. 95 points
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