2020 Oddero Barbera d'Asti Nizza
let’s also consider Barbera 2.0 !
The Odderos have been producing a Barbera d’Asti DOC for many decades but, because they made so little, and because the family was always worried that American consumers would confuse their two Barberas, they avoided the confusion and, for the most part, kept the wine in Italy. But within Barbera d’Asti grew a second, higher-quality DOCG named after Nizza and the Odderos’ vineyards were uniquely suited to take advantage. Nizza on the label means the wine must be 100% Barbera and grown only in one of the approved tiny subzones that comprise the appellation. It also has to be tasted and approved by a panel of growers, winemakers and experts before earning its DOCG strip. In the Odderos’ case, their old, old Barbera vines are in the township of Vinchio d’Asti, on a hillside so steep they have to replace, manually (as the vines are so crammed together and the soil so fragile you can’t put a tractor in), all of the dirt that collapses in the erosion that happens every winter. This hot, dry, very austere site produces really, really intense, mineral driven Barbera loaded with ferrous-y, bitter chocolate-tinged red fruit, more like red currants or mulberry than the broader cherry-or plum-like fruit you’d find in Barbera d’Alba. Compact, very stylish and just a little bit rustic, it’s a classic, old school rendition of Barbera as seen through the lens of one of the Langhe’s most astute and meticulous winemakers. It’s the absolutely perfect partner alongside richer pasta sauces, dry-cooked spare ribs (this wine loves pork!) and all kinds of harder cheeses. Try it with a beautiful Castelmagno!
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