Faugères is one of the smallest districts in the broad Languedoc region of southern France, but its wines have a particularly strong reputation because of the unique schist soil that abounds there, especially at higher elevations. Domaine Ollier-Taillefer, owned and managed by the brother-and-sister team of Luc and Françoise Ollier (the 5th generation of family ownership), is a marvelous estate, comprised of roughly 36 hectares, farmed organically and producing a small portfolio of regional wines, including Blanc, Rosé, Rouge and dessert versions of Faugères.

The 2020 Faugères ‘Clos des Murettes’ (murettes means ladybugs) is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, grown in low-yielding vineyards planted in the minerally soils in the northern reaches of the appellation. It is a great example of the quality that can be discovered in the far-flung recesses of the hills and valleys of this bucolic countryside—highly aromatic with dark fruit flavors and savory spices galore. The domaine and its vineyards are located in the village of Fos, well inland and at elevations between 300 and 350 meters. The unique combination of schist soil and high elevation creates wines with great concentration of aroma and flavor while the Mediterranean climate contributes the character that the locals describe as garrigue. For me, it’s an expression of the sunny climate and aromatic herbs and spices that emanate from the rugged terrain and somehow influence the character of the wines. It’s easy to take a sip, close your eyes and imagine yourself basking in the bright sunshine and heady atmosphere of this beautiful corner of southwestern France.

—Frank Rothstein