2020 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 1.5L
A very fragrant, polished Movig that drinks more like a fine Burgundy than a robust young Barolo. Excellent length and a seductive palate that will beguile for many years. Intriguing as always. Vinous 93, JS 96
2020 in Barolo marks the middle of a trio of magnificent harvests in the region and, perhaps, the most interesting of the three. While warm in an absolute sense, it’s actually the coolest and most ‘classical’ of these three harvests and the wines, thanks to their wonderful native acidity and natural balance, harken back to another era when wines in this style were more the rule than the exception. Think 1998 and 2012 as correlates: middle weight wines that may lack the gravitas and sheer oomph of some other recent harvests but will, nonetheless, provide a great deal of pleasure for many years and have the added benefit of early accessibility. The producers themselves love them! As usual, the Scavinos made textbook wines that vividly show the character of the harvest as well as their respective terroirs. As a group, they are fantastic! The epiphany for me was just how good the normally lighter Ambrogio was in 2020. This is no longer the poor step-child cuvee in this lineup and, in 2020, it rivals Monvigliero as my favorite. Prapo was also a standout for me while the Bric del Fiasc is a dead-ringer for the 2012, and that’s a good thing. Ravera will need some time to grow into itself. If you can afford a few bottles of the rare 2016 San Lorenzo Riserva, by all means, get a few bottles. It is an uncommon achievement in an uncommonly good vintage! And you gotta love that old school label.
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