When it comes to California Chardonnay, there are many who it do it well, but the list of those who do it exceptionally well is a lot shorter.  These are winemakers who can translate California’s best sites into wines with transparency and character as well as richness and wood.  At the very top of that shortlist is Paul Hobbs.  And while we do very much admire his wonderful Sonoma County Pinot Noirs, Argentinian Malbecs and ultra-luxurious Napa Valley Cabernets, it is Hobbs’ work with cool climate Chardonnay that continues to, above all, impress us.  It is precisely in wines like his Russian River Valley Chardonnay that manage the delicate balancing act between the ripeness and power of Chardonnay and the kind of élan and elegance possible when it’s handled adroitly.  His 2020 is just beautiful:  Right from its lemon verbena-apricot nose right down to its endless finish, you know you are in for a treat.  It’s in Hobbs’ really smart use of wood where this wine shines.  It’s there- you know it’s there- but it is so seamless a part of the wine that it was like it came from the grape and not a tree!  Rich without being overly intense, pretty without forgetting its roots, it’s a California Chardonnay that does everything just about perfectly!  Great on its own but really a great food wine too, this Chardonnay is perfect with a fresh cracked Dungeness, a grilled swordfish fillet with compound herb butter or ?????  Up to you……  Good price.

Wine Advocate: A barrel sample, the 2020 Chardonnay is scented of baked apples and touches of almonds, flint and mushrooms, with those wafts of reduction still taking center stage at this point in time. The palate is medium-bodied, deeply fruited and pleasingly textural, finishing long and spicy.  93-95 points

Wine Spectator:  Starts off subtle and taut, with crunchy citrus and pear flavors, flinty minerality and peppery white flower aromatics. Gains momentum and torque on the long finish, expanding into lemon zest and more mineral-driven nuances. Drink now through 2035. 93 points

Jeb Dunnuck: The 2020 Chardonnay Russian River Valley is sunny with golden pineapple, Meyer lemon, and wet stone. It has a delicately rounded feel on the palate without being weighted down, with fresh pear, orange pith, and green almond. 93 points