Nowhere else, I think, does the unique soil of a region so inform the style of the wine as it does in the Soave Classico appellation. Located on a sweep of hills that roll eastward as far as the Venice lagoon, this area is not to be confused with the flatlands that lay below that produce an ocean of the innocuous wine simply called Soave. The Classico hills that range as high as 600 meters over sea level are black with pieces of dried volcanic lava pockmarked with blue sulfur. This pumice-y rock endows the local Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grapes with uncommon underlying power and stunning minerality.
Graziano Pra, the first generation of a longtime Soave farming family to bottle and sell their wine, is considered something of visionary for the region. A pioneer of organic farming in these hills, he bottles not just one, but four difference cuvees from his holdings in Soave Classico, the delightful, delicious Otto, for immediate consumption, and three others designed to not only show their respective terroirs, but also show the power and age-ability these unique hills can offer.
The Monte Grande comes from a single parcel of 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave (actually a cousin of Verdicchio) planted in the early 1970s. The Trebbiano is picked earlier in the season and vinified separately to maintain its light fresh personality, but for the old Garganega, after the first waning moon in September, the shoots leading to the grape clusters are partially cut and the clusters are left to slightly dehydrate for another month or so, concentrating both the juice and the acidity. The wine is then fermented and aged in large neutral casks of 30 hectoliters for ten months and then held in bottle before release. The Monte Grande cuvee is one of the top expressions of Soave Classico produced from the appellation. It’s fresh, even zingy, and when you first open the bottle redolent of dry honey, quince, smoky mineral and baking bread aromas that lead to a gorgeous, mouth-filling palate that leans towards the tropical with ripe pineapple, flamed orange peel and Meyer lemon. The finish takes you right to the top of that extinct volcano with that touch of flinty mineral. It’s really an extraordinary drink!
Vinous Media: The 2020 Soave Classico Monte Grande is so pretty yet slightly understated, with a herbal twang that gives way to orange zests and pretty yellow flowers. This is round yet amazingly fresh and vibrant, with vivid apple tones and hints of chamomile. There’s a lasting florality and staining mix of kiwi and young mango while also salty and lightly structured. Breathtaking. 94 points
James Suckling: Quite intense and focused nose, showing mineral, honey and beeswax on top of the fresh lemon and pineapple. Ripe on the palate, packed with honeyed fruit and showing generosity, as well as concentration. Fresh and bright, with lots of flavors in the medium to full body. Drink now. 93 points
