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The Roagna wines are benchmarks for traditional Piemontese winemaking: made exclusively from old vines on great sites, naturally farmed and fermented, and very much aged and finished the old-fashioned way. Unfortunately, Luca Roagna’s seminal Barbarescos and Barolos are rare and pricey, but our favorite in the ‘Under $175’ category is definitely this 2020 Roagna Langhe Rosso. From younger vines (young, in this case, means 25-30 years of age) in the Pira (Castiglione Falletto) and Pajè (Barbaresco) vineyards, this rare mixing of the appellations must legally be called simply ‘Langhe Rosso’ rather than either Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d’Alba. Name notwithstanding, it’s utterly superb and an excellent window into what makes the Roagna wines so great. This deep, dark rendition of 100% Nebbiolo is the product of fermentation in large cask and a full 60-day maceration and five-year aging cycle, an unbelievable regimen for a wine with such a modest appellation.

Serious stuff and very age-worthy to boot. This is the Roagna we can buy for ourselves.

Wine Enthusiast, 93 points: Fragrant and loaded with class, the Roagna 2020 Langhe Rosso has beguiling aromas of rose petal, new leather, dark spice and wild herb. On the linear, savory palate, bright acidity lifts juicy Morello cherry, baking spice, star anise and blood orange. Made with Nebbiolo vines 25-30-years-old, it has lithe, refined tannins. Drink through 2032. –Kerin O’Keefe