The name Vaira is, of course, one of the best-known monikers in southern Barolo, particularly around the hamlet of Vergne where the Barolo zone intersects with La Morra, Novello and Narzole. Besides the ultra-important Vaira family (who use the Piemontese spelling in the name of their cellar) at G.D. Vajra, there’s a brand new Vaira on the winemaking scene up there on the hill, brothers Francesco and Giacomo. Using the land inherited from their father Aurelio (‘Aurej’ in Piemontese) who died some 20 years ago, the brothers are among a score of passionate young winemakers in the Langhe intent on redefining the landscape of this often hidebound region. The majority of their estate faces the Alps ‘over the hill,’ literally a scant hundred and fifty meters away from legally being able to call their wine Nebbiolo grapes ‘Barolo.’ From that out-of-zone area, they bottle two very intriguing Nebbiolo-based reds labeled, simply, since they’re out of the appellation, Vino Rosso with no vintage. But, no matter their legal standing, they are, indeed, excellent! On the other side of the hill, though, the brothers also inherited a tiny piece of the Fossati MGA, a higher altitude (460 meters) spot in the Barolo zone neighboring Cerequio, Liste, Bricco delle Viole and La Serra. While the vines are relatively young (planted only in 2012), they are organically farmed in a terrific spot to not only ripen perfectly but also withstand the heat that can bake some of the vineyards in the La Morra-Barolo amphitheater nearby. In 2020, their inaugural vintage, they have struck gold! Certainly one of our Young Gun discoveries of the year, the 2020 Vaira Barolo Fossati is a classic in the making. Putting aside the barest perceptible dash of new wood (new winery so new casks!) this is everything we love about the 2020 vintage in the region. Filled with vivid red cherry fruit, lifted, beautifully framed aromatics of camphor, balsam, cinnamon and clove, it strikes just the right balance between its charming, engaging fruit and its youthful, higher altitude tannins and bright acidity. An absolute joy to drink now, I’d classify it as a medium-term ager that will show well its whole life. For a debut wine, it shows impressive polish and even a bit of gravitas. Watch this address carefully. It’s going to be a good one.