2021 Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District
If anything, this is denser and darker than the Archery Summit! This winery is one of the best in the state and the biodynamic farming shows up in the wine’s special internal energy and vivacity.
Bergstrom is an Oregonian family affair with Swedish roots. Rural Sweden is from where John Bergstrom hails and Oregon seemed like a natural destination when he left his farmer’s life and went to make his mark on the world. That mark was as a surgeon in Portland and it was in Portland where he met his wife and future business partner, Karen. After a successful career and wanting to return to his farming roots, he packed up and moved his young family to Dundee where he planted a small vineyard. In 1999, John and Karen’s son Josh, the fourth of five kids, returned to the nest after completing a degree in viticulture and enology in Burgundy and, with his new wife (and current head of sales and marketing) Carolyn, bottled the first vintage of Bergstrom Pinot Noir in 2002. Fast forward to the present and Bergstrom is now 70-acres big with vineyards spanning the Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains and Ribbon Ridge, three of the Willamette Valley’s top appellations. The vineyards have all been farmed with a gentle hand, without the use of herbicides, pesticides, insecticides, or systemic chemicals. They compost and treat vine ailments and stimulate growth with homeopathic herbal and mineral teas rather than synthetic fertilizers. They also build hundreds of tons of compost piles around their vineyards with local and organic cow manure, organic straw and grasses and all of their previous harvest’s fermented grape skins, seeds, stems and winter vine-prunings, as well as herbs like chamomile, yarrow, valerian, dandelion and stinging nettle. This enlightened approach to farming carries over to the style of the wines the Bergstoms produce which emphasize fruit and finesse over raw power. The Cumberland Reserve, named after the street where John lived in Portland, represents a selection of the best barrels in the cellar and the best way to experience the lovely wines being made here. Coming from one of the most exciting vintages Oregon as had in years (and a welcome relief from the challenging, smoke-tainted 2020) the 2021 Cumberland Reserve still weighs in at a modest 12.7% alcohol, this is the sort of elemental, refined Oregon Pinot Noir we simply love. Plenty of florals up front and ample and charming raspberry confit-like fruit to back it up, it’s a medium- to full-bodied Pinot Noir with an easy touch, effortless grace and a ton of appeal. This is the kind of Pinot Noir I love with grilled salmon and lighter poultry and game dishes. We tried it with some wild mushrooms sauteed in butter on polenta and it just perfect!
shipping included on 6 bottles or more
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