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The Cantina del Pino Barbaresco has become an acknowledged bellwether wine for any given vintage and the archetypal window into the soul of Ovello, a vineyard treasured for the intensity and quality of its fruit and for producing Barbaresco’s classiest, most age-worthy wines. The 2021 Barbaresco, which also benefits from contributions from the Gallina, Loreto and Albesani MGAs, is just that: a wine of imposing girth, generous fruit and incredible polish, augmented by formidable acidity and a perfect set of life-giving tannins and acidity. Those who call Barbaresco ‘feminine’ are probably not referring to this wine. It’s dark and its aromatics are packed with tar, roses, cloves, cinnamon, scorched earth and hot stone. Its texture is rich with buttery leather and plum skin-like notes and its finish beefy and muscular but also quite svelte and charming.

This is where I often write ‘delicious to drink now,’ and, after drinking most of a bottle last night, I would again state that, but with the caveat that you give it plenty of air first—maybe a double decant. But really, this is, quite simply, the best Cantina del Pino straight Barbaresco we’ve ever tasted and a wonderful example of just how good the region performed in 2021. And still affordable too!

Wine Spectator, 95 points: A pretty red, this exudes cherry, strawberry, pomegranate and rose flavors, plus a touch of earth. Open and harmonious, yet with a firm, vibrant structure that will allow this to age gracefully. Offers terrific length and a fruit-driven aftertaste. Best from 2029 through 2046.
 
Vinous, 92 points: The 2021 Barbaresco is a very pretty entry-level offering from Cantina del Pino. Floral, gracious and inviting, the 2021 is all charm. Crushed flowers, blood orange, mint and white pepper complement a core of red Nebbiolo fruit in this stylish, vibrant Barbaresco. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin pull it all together on the beautifully perfumed finish. This is an understated wine for the year, but that works so well here. Vineyard sources are Ovello and Loreto.