2021 Chateau Meyney, Saint Estephe

$49.99

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In 1662, Chateau Meyney was a convent. That may be one explanation as to how the property avoided being named a Classified Growth when that designation came into being back in 1855. Its neighbors certainly were- Meyney’s adjacent vineyard is Chateau Montrose- the iconic Second Growth- and, on the other side, is the famous Calon-Segur, an overachieving Third. The Meyney property sits on a gentle slope (always good for wine grapes) that runs from the monastery cum winery building all the way down to the Gironde. After the convent was closed, the estate fell into the hands of a family called Leutkins who owned and made wine from it until 1919 when it was sold to the Cordiers, one of Saint Estephe’s most venerable names. The Cordiers, who also owned Montrose at the same time, planted the vineyards into roughly the proportion they are today- 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and the rest, uniquely, Petit Verdot and Meyney became known as one of the commune of Saint Estephe’s most ‘typical’ properties, producing wines of depth, intense minerality and tannin and amazing complexity. That reputation continues to this day, especially now that the current owners, CA Grands Cru, has converted the property’s 50 contiguous hectares into organic viticulture, the first registered vintage as such being the 2021 you have in your hands. The large percentage of Petit Verdot (12% in 2021) in the Meyney blend has always been one of its calling cards. This very dark, tannic and acidic grape has always been called ‘the squeeze of lemon on top’ of the Bordeaux blend adding not so much its own character but accentuating the characters of the other grapes in the mix. The 2021 is magnificent. Saint Estephe is known for producing the most powerful wines in the northern Medoc, as well as its longest lived and this Meyney is a poster child for the commune. It has a red fruit slant with red rock, iron-like mineral, aniseed and brambly blackberry patch notes coming through a middle- to full-weight palate that finishes with young but pliant tannin. Sure, I’d wait to drink this but with a roast lamb, duck (see below) or prime rib, I’d sure encourage you to open this tonight! Decanting is a subject worth a lot of discussion which I will avoid here but I do think, if you want your Meyney to show its best, that you do pass it through a decanter on its way to your table. Enjoy!

Validation Department:

Wine Enthusiast: This wine has density and some firm tannins. A spectacular vineyard that faces the Gironde estuary, this estate gives a rich wine that needs some serious aging. 94 points

Vinous: The 2021 Meyney has a lovely bouquet with floral-tinged red berry fruit, opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh red berry fruit laced with oyster shell and spice. Fine build towards a menthol-tinged finish, winemaker Anne La Nour has conjured a very commendable Saint-Estèphe from a tricky growing season. If release prices match your wallet, I'd stick a case (or two) in the cellar. 93 points

James Suckling: A refined and complex expression for the vintage with sweet red chili pepper, cassis, red plums, pencil shavings and a cedary edge. Medium to full body with silky, fine tannins and a lengthy, polished finish. An overachiever here that shows finesse and sophistication. Already a joy to drink now, but should age nicely in the next decade. 93 points