It cannot be denied that wines in the Southern Rhône have done nothing but increase in girth and ABV over the past few decades.  In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, they say that 15% is the new 13, and 16 is not far away.  That’s what makes my just-arrived 2021 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape a breath of fresh air. The cooler vintage marked a sudden and very welcome return to the classic, vibrant, and food-friendly style that originally made this region legendary.  Crafted by the Armenier sisters, the pioneers who brought biodynamic farming to Châteauneuf-du-Pape over thirty years ago, their 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape trades heavy heat for pure elegance and gorgeous aromatic lift.  Around the town, they call 2021 the Sommelier's Vintage, with many wines coming in completely ripe at a relatively svelte 14% ABV. Marcoux could be the harvest’s poster child, offering up bright acidity and finely polished tannins that complement a meal rather than overpower it. But elegance does not come at the expense of the aromatic complexity and plush texture we’ve grown to expect from the appellation. The Marcoux is sourced from 13 distinct vineyard plots around the estate and comprises 80% Grenache (that lovely core of sweet red fruit, spice and silkiness), 10% Mourvèdre (adds structure, deep color and savory, earthy notes), 7% Syrah (contributes dark fruit, color and pepper notes) and 3% Cinsault (for aromatic lift, freshness, and bright acidity). Bursting with fresh red berries, wild cherries and licorice, all that fruit is layered over a complex backdrop of smoky minerality and Provençal herbs.  It is incredibly expressive and rewarding today with a quick decant, yet possesses the seamless structure to age beautifully for the next decade or so.  If you appreciate the poise, complexity, and tradition of old-school Rhône blends, this is an absolute must-have at a Brave New World price that makes it almost irresistible! 

Wine Spectator, 93 points: This has power and poise, with garrigue, plum, licorice and raspberry expertly framed by a lot of mineral energy and graphite shavings. Refined and pure, with integration from start to finish. Some finely cut tannins maintain the focus and form. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2035.

Jeb Dunnuck, 92 points: Bottled in April, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is mostly Grenache that was all destemmed and was raised in foudre, tronconique, and concrete tanks. It has a pretty, medium-bodied, elegant style as well as both red and black fruit, peppery herbs, and violet notes. Showing the fresher, more mid-weight style of the vintage, it's balanced, has fine tannins, and outstanding length. It has a more expansive, seamless, pleasure-bent style than most and is one of the top base cuvées in the vintage. Bravo.