2021 DVO Dalle Valle-Ornellaia, Napa Valley

$324.99

Current stock: 2

When I first heard about this project- a joint venture between two iconic wineries- one in the Napa Valley and one in Tuscany- I was a little trepidatious. Sometimes these Italo-California marriages can be a little rocky, witness the other side of the Antinori family’s errant attempt to produce Sangiovese on Atlas Peak. But, since this project was born more of mutual respect and a genuine desire to collaborate, and since both parties are absolutely committed to the highest levels of integrity and passion, I had to figure DVO-Dalla Valley-Ornellaia would be pretty good. And, oh my goodness, is it ever! Using fruit sourced from several of the Valley’s top sites and the winemaking talents of Maya Dalle Valle and Ornellaia’s (now departed) Axel Heinz, they’ve created a single wine of incredible class that combines a bit of New World Napa panache against the background of Old Worldy Tuscan understatement and charm. The secret is, I think, is in the Cabernet Franc, 15% of the blend, that comes from David Abreu’s Los Posadas vineyard in the Howell Mountain AVA. It brings a subtle gloss and a high-toned aromatic duskiness to a wine that has plenty of Oakville Cab (as in Vine Hill Ranch and Oakville Ranch) oomph. Seamless, silky and simply gorgeous, this is a wine that actually lives up to the glamor of its two partners. Put another way, we don’t often recommend $325 wines but here’s a true collector’s item that seems worthy of all the hype! I have nine bottles in three-bottle cases. Lovers of Dalla Valle and Ornellaia, both, should rejoice at this singular achievement. 625 cases made.

 

Antonio Galloni: The 2021 DVO is superb. Cabernet Franc plays a big role, and that comes through loud and clear in the wine's aromatic and structural feel. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, crushed rocks, pencil shavings and cloves all race across the palate. There's a bit more depth here than in the first vintages, and that is very much to the wine's benefit. The 2021 will need some time to settle down, but it is a hugely promising wine. DVO is the joint venture formed by the Dalla Valle family and Ornellaia. Early vintages showed the natural learning that takes place over time. The 2021 is the best DVO yet. It will be interesting to see where this project goes following the departure of Axel Heinz, Ornellaia's long-time Estate Director, in 2023. DVO has real potential, but like any venture, success requires time, patience and investment. (Drink between 2027-2046) 97 points

Jeb Dunnuck: Not yet bottled, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon checks in as 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Las Posadas Cabernet Franc, with the Cabernet Sauvignon coming from Vine Hill, Oakville Ranch, and Collinetta in Coombsville. It has classic 2021 density and power in its full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe black fruits, black olive, bouquet garni, and dark chocolate, and it's rich and powerful, with a great mid-palate and building tannins, all making for a serious, age-worthy wine. I was also able to taste a small sample of the 2022, which showed beautifully, but as it was only a tiny portion of the blend, it's tough to write a review. Nevertheless, if the sample is indicative of the final blend, this will unquestionably be worth your time and money. It's also worth pointing out that 2022 will be the last vintage for collaborator Axel Heinz (previous at Ornellaia) as he moves into his new role as director for Château Lascombes in Bordeaux. 96-98 points

Wine Spectator: This is distinctive from the start, with notes of roasted apple wood, cedar, warm earth, baker's chocolate and sweet tobacco leading off, followed by a deep well of black currant, blackberry and black cherry paste flavors. Flashes of flinty minerality peek in, adding cut and energy as the finish rumbles along, with a grippy, terroir-driven feel. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2045. 625 cases made. 96 points

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2027 through 2045. 625 cases made. 96 points