2021 Fèvre Fèvre Chablis "Montée de Tonnerre" 1er Cru
2021 Fèvre Fèvre Chablis "Montée de Tonnerre" 1er Cru
There’s something about that Fevre name! This branch of the first family of Chablis, that of William’s cousin Nathalie who, for many years, was the winemaker at the famous La Chablisienne , and husband Gilles, whose father and grandfather were presidents of that cooperative, has become the best-regarded of that august lineage. Their holdings in the tenderloin of the appellation are really second to none and their winemaking considered some of the most inspired this side of Dauvissat and Raveneau. They do a number of bottlings of each cru under several different designations including the Fevre-Fevre label, an homage to Fevre ancestors Marcel and Blanche. Regardless of which label you find, Nathalie et Gilles or Fevre-Fevre, the contents are the same- top-quality Chablis from some of the very best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the appellation. After the richer, maybe a shade too rich, 2020 harvest in Chablis, the 2021 vintage sees a return to a cooler, more classic style and these two Premier Crus show the Fevre style at the top of its game. Montée de Tonnerre is, of course, considered the very best of Chablis’ Premier Crus as it borders on the Grand Crus and can often produce wines every bit their quality. The wines tend to be intense and powerful and, in this case, get a bit more wood than the other cuvees in the Fevre cellar. Those who like to cellar their Chablis and don’t want to pay in the triple digits for Grand Crus, will love paying half as much for this! Mont de Milieu sits just to the east of Montée de Tonnerre, with a south-facing slope. Its wines can be just as rich as Montee de Tonnerre but have a cooler, ultimately, more classic sort of Chablis profile with more obvious nervy acidity and zing. Side-by-side, they make a wonderful comparison of two great terroirs. If I were drinking one tonight (and I just might!), I’d drink the Mont de Milieu. Ask me again in five years and I might give you a different answer. In any event, these are both classics and we think a few bottles of each wouldn’t be amiss. How about that Coquilles St. Jacques you’ve been meaning to make? Or, just as good, Premier Cru Chablis and a perfectly roasted chicken with lemon and herbs is one of the best combinations I can imagine!
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