Remember how good Zin used to be? It was one of my favorite wines back in the day, and my cellar still has some old guys kicking around! The current trend, though, definitely leans into wines of greater extraction, elevated alcohols and the substitution of horsepower for style: Far less attractive to me. Those days of really complex, lithe ‘Claret-like’ Zins that have a bit of brambly complexity, offer up some natural acidity and match well with food seem long gone. A few months ago, in search of something to go with marinated flank steak and some jaded wine friends, I dug a bottle of 2001 Grgich Hills Zin out of the back of the cellar and we all waxed nostalgic about just how distinctive and complex this variety can be and how great it can pair with food- even 23 years after it was harvested. I was reminded of that evening again today when John Williams, founder of the seminal Frog’s Leap Winery, dropped by Dublin to swap war stories about the wine world back in the day and pour for us his, among other delicious wines, his 2021 Napa Valley Zin. Wow, we said, here was a wine that really harkened back to those old days. It was, well, elegant! And thoroughly delicious too. Both Brandon and I resolved to put some in our cellars at home and store them alongside all those grab-and-go summer reds so important to have around. (And I resolved not to wait another 20+ years to drink it, either) Williams, who knows of what he speaks when it comes to making Zin (he’s been making it since 1981), has reacted to the riper grapes he’s harvesting these days by infusing around 10% of cold-soaked Petite Sirah into the bubbling ferment. He says the blast of cold Pet grapes slows the fermentation and lock in the freshness of the fruit, preserving and accentuating the final wine’s acidity. A little dash of very old vine Carignane from a vineyard in Mendocino further enhances the structure of the end result before aging it in concrete rather than wood. The result is, simply, the prettiest, freshest tasting Zin we’ve enjoyed in years! It was around 100 degrees here yesterday and John had his sample bottle nice and chilled- just south of cellar temperature- and it was perfect. Think mulberries or black currants rather than sweet berry jam with hints of summer blackberry bramble, a whiff of pipe tobacco and aniseed and a nice fresh finish. Middle weight rather than full, it struck just the right balance between its fruit and fresh acidity. Since we obviously loved it so much, John was kind enough to leave the bottle behind and Brandon and I had to rock-paper-scissors to see who got to take it home last night for supper! (I lost) And you should consider taking some home for your supper too. It will be fantastic with all kinds of backyard fare- like that marinated flank steak for instance. We talked John into giving us a good price too, and we’re happy to pass that on. Very highly recommended!

Wine Enthusiast: Mouthwatering and delicious with crisp acidity and a driving finish, this wine offers a pleasing range of flavors including mixed cherries, cranberries, warming spices and savory accents. Both friendly and beguiling, it has pleasing approachability and depth. Firm while moderate tannins and mouthwatering acidity create a palate-cleansing accompaniment to a wide range of foods. 94 points