#8 PRIMA’s ’24 for 24’ Best Wines Of The Year

We tend to be rather cynical when it comes to the ‘new’ Napa Valley and the proliferation of wines costing many hundreds of dollars from producers that haven’t established anything like track records that justify their prices. But terroir is terroir in the Napa Valley, and the best vineyards have earned their stripes over now decades of producing magnificent wines. The Beckstoffer family’s Georges III is one such vineyard. Located just east of the Silverado Trail in Rutherford, adjacent to Caymus, it was first planted in 1895 by Mrs. Thomas Rutherford, the Rutherford for whom the town is named. It was purchased by Beaulieu Vineyards founder Georges de Latour in 1928 and called BV #3 and was one of the prized sources for Andre Tchelistcheff’s legendary BV Georges de Latour Private Reserves in the 1960s and 1970s. Its pedigree is priceless, and the grapes became priceless too once the vineyard was purchased by Andy Beckstoffer in 1988, and the fruit subsequently sold to winemakers themselves anxious to reproduce the glories of yesteryear. The producers who have made wine from this site are a who’s-who of the Napa Valley elite and the wines have garnered literally scores of perfect- or near-perfect ratings from the critics. The cost of farming these largely Cabernet Sauvignon grapes is now extraordinary and the prices paid by these winemakers to purchase them necessitates nosebleed shelf prices- often well north of $200, or, in the case of several notable examples, $500 or more! Worth it? Not for me to decide. But when a wine that exhibits the class and elan of this vaunted terroir comes along that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg, I am willing to take a tumble. That wine is Locanda. I have to admit I love the name as it means ‘inn’ in Italian but, in the vernacular, refers to a local place, often with a bit of warmth or nostalgia attached to it. And the project is, indeed, Italy inspired. They have a gorgeous spot (and an inn) in Sonoma Valley that I look forward to visiting someday. That is if they’re not too angry at me for selling a wine they sell for $250 to their mailing list for about 1/3 of that. What I really enjoyed about this wine is the Old World feel to it, as if it were channeling one of those old BV Private Reserves. Not at all overdone, it’s still a big, full-bodied wine with a ton of glossy, dusky Rutherford fruit but the charming florals and sweet spices are lifted by a lovely fresh acidity and bright tannins. Complete, silky and a joy to drink, this is one of those rare occasions where terroir triumphs over price! (I am not supposed to say how it is I am able to sell this wine for this price, so I won’t. But let’s keep it under our hat, eh?) 84 bottles only.

Lisa Perrotti-Brown: The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer GIII Vineyard Block A1A has a deep garnet-purple color, leaping from the glass with vibrant notes of red currant jelly, fresh blueberries, and cassis, plus suggestions of wild sage, crushed rocks, and Sichuan pepper. The full-bodied palate is filled with energetic black and red berry flavors, supported by finely grained tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing with great length and a skip in its step. 94 points

The Wine Independent: The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard is deep garnet-purple in color. Fragrant notes of redcurrant jelly, fresh blackberries, and blackcurrant pastilles give way to notes of cinnamon stick, clove oil, and iris. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers intense, energetic flavors with a firm, grainy texture and a spicy kick to the finish. 95 points.