2021 Paul Pernot Bourgogne Cote d'Or Chardonnay
Those of us in the wine business, well, those of us who truly love wine anyway, make no pretense towards absolute impartiality when it comes to judging our favorites. We form deep emotional attachments to some wines and they become more like old friends than something you could ever objectively ‘score.’ Sure, some vintages might be more hyped than others, but, by and large, great producers produce great wines, and fans want them year-in-year-out. One such old friend is Paul Pernot’s ultra-reliable, ultra-delicious Bourgogne Chardonnay. No matter the circumstance, just seeing a bottle with that classic old school label on the table and a non-leaky glass nearby is a comfort. The just-arrived 2020 brings us an extra degree of mouthfilling richness and elegance that truly belies its supposedly humble appellation. We love it! This cuvee traditionally comes from two distinct organically farmed vineyard parcels; one adjacent to Chateau du Puligny-Montrachet in the heart of the town of Puligny (where it, unfortunately for them-but lucky for us, cannot be appelled Puligny-Montrachet) and the other, a parcel of even older vines grown on Puligny’s border with Meursault. Fermented and aged in barrels, about 5% of which are new, this cuvee really shows no oak at all but you can feel the added texture and breadth on the palate it provides. This lovely Burgundy is so pure, so focused, and so flavorful, you can’t help but love it. At very least, let it do duty as a super food-friendly, flexible house white. For me, it’s the clean linear definition of its Asian pear-lemon curd fruit and the gentle subtlety of its citrus-infused mineral background that brings nuance and intrigue to the flavors that keeps me thinking about the wine. This old friend is a great, great drinker and will impress even the most demanding Burgundy lover and, as proven over many vintages here at PRIMA, it will only get better as it ages. It should be at its peak in only four or five years. As always, very highly recommended for your next Coquilles St. Jacques or whole grilled fish, or really anytime the taste of the genuine article is called for. Don’t serve too cold! Still an incredible bargain!
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