100% Ribolla Gialla

While tourists still flock in incredible numbers to Venice, Verona and Milan in northern Italy, they still seem reluctant to explore much further east, even though those who do will discover one of the most unique, historic and exciting areas in all of Italy. Friuli exists where East meets West, and the cities of Udine and Trieste are stunning cultural and architectural reminders that, depending on who wins what war, Friuli’s inclusion in Italy is more arbitrary than part of any great European master plan.  This territory is a melting pot of pan-Italian and Slavic-Austro-Hungarian influences, not only culturally, but also at the table and in the wine cellar. Wine-wise, it is also a hotbed for vinous experimentation, and Friuli calls itself home to the ‘orange wine’ movement, the rebirth of terracotta amphorae fermentation and aging and scores of other back-to-the-future innovations. It is also home to the one of the highest percentages of DOC-bottled quality wine in Italy at an overall level of excellence that dwarfs the rest of the country.  The rolling eastern hills and flatlands leading to the Adriatic produce intriguing, unique wines with distinctive flavors and, often, significant bang for buck. Drinking the wines of Tenuta Luisa is the perfect way to discover just how good the wines can be out here in Italy’s wild, wild east.  This four-generation estate began in 1907 with the purchase by one Francesco Luisa of a tiny vineyard near the town of Carso.  The property is now run by his grandson Eddi and his two sons- the three figures on the Luisa label ‘crown.’  They now farm red clay and limestone ‘karst’ soils on either side of the Isonzo River, right on Italy’s border with Slovenia. The vineyards of Friuli are planted to an intriguing mixture of indigenous and more recent-arrival grapes and Luisa is typical in that they not only make wines like Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon but also local discoveries like Verduzzo, Friulano and Refosco.  Our favorites at a recent tasting of them all was the white Ribolla Gialla and the red Cabernet Franc.  Both are really exciting, well-priced and delicious entrées into the winemaking heart of Friuli- discoveries we want you to make too.
The Ribolla Gialla is, as one of my colleagues said, an easy wine to love, but a lot harder to explain!  Some say it was brought by the Romans during their heyday in the region while others say it was here even before that.  Regardless, it’s a grape you won’t find anywhere else but Friuli (with apologies to those now making it in California and Australia).  It makes a straw yellow, very crisp, very dry white with very pleasing acacia dried honey, citrus and green herb notes.  Like a less-pungent, more aromatic version of Sauvignon Blanc, it’s fresh and lively enough for oysters, clams and other seafood dishes but also rich and satisfying enough on the palate to stand up to the very intensely flavored and very rich cuisine of Friuli.  Try it as an apero with freshly-made crispy Montasio cheese Frico and you’ll have a true Friulian treat!