2021 Trediberri Barolo Berri
I first visited Trediberri now seven years ago at the behest of our good friend Massimo Martinelli who had worked with this micro-cellar’s co-owner Nicola Oberto’s father Federico for over five decades in the cellars of nearby Renato Ratti. Massimo was working with Nicola to make his own Bricco Mollea wines at Trediberri, and told me that he thought the then-infant winery was poised soon to join the top echelon of La Morra producers and worth getting to know. And a subsequent few hours with Nicola, walking his parcels of Berri and Rocche dell’Annunziata, and tasting through a few barrels and bottles made an instant convert out of me! The stuff coming out of this tiny cellar was top, top notch! Unfortunately, at the time, the wines weren’t available in the States and I had to content myself with drinking the odd bottle when I could find one in Italy- until several years ago, finally, Oberto found an importer he could work with (not me, alas) and now we are fortunate enough to obtain an annual allocation of Trediberri, albeit still in small quantities. And, of course, the label has now gone supernova amongst those with insider knowledge of the Barolo area. Massimo, a veteran of near 65 harvest in Barolo, is rarely wrong about this kind of stuff!
A bit of background first. ‘Trediberri’ means ‘the three from Berri,’ a reference to the three founders; ex-sommelier Nicola, papa Federico and another longtime colleague. The star of the show is the Berri cru- the Annunziata vineyard sitting on the back side of La Morra hill in which the trio now own about 12.5 acres. The small cantina also happens to front on the iconic Rocche dell’Annunziata MGA of which some seven well-placed acres are also part of the estate. In the 2021 vintage presents us with the best set of Barolos we’ve tried to date from Trediberri and a true coming out for the Berri MGA, a higher altitude site tucked into the Cherasco side of La Mora facing the Alps, rather than the ‘bowl’ of Barolo. What used to be a site considered to be too cool to reliably ripen Nebbiolo, is now in the sweet spot of climate change, producing polished and well-filled, actually quite rich, Barolos, albeit with some sometimes rustic cool climate tannins. This characterizes perfectly the Trediberri 2021 Berri. It’s warm and cool at the same time with heady hoisin, camphor-y plum and cherry aromatics and a head shop’s worth of exotic patchouli and cinnamon that lead to a luscious, soundly tannic finish that has already begun to round into form. This is one of the most expressive 2021s we’ve tried so far; surprisingly rich, like so many 2021s, but with all of its clearly defined aromatics and structure. A very impressive Barolo indeed! Alas, only a few cases available.
Vinous: Nicola and Stefania Oberto are slowly putting Berri on the map. Silky, aromatic and creamy on the palate, the 2021 Barolo Berri is striking in its beauty. Crushed flowers, sweet red-toned fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper all meld together effortlessly. Silky, polished tannins frame the finish. The 2021 doesn't have the immediacy of the 2020, but it may catch up to it one day because of its energy. It is a superb young Barolo—that much is clear. About 30% of wine saw submerged cap maceration. Time in cask was 25 months….Nicola Oberto and Stefania Drocco exude all the enthusiasm and passion of the younger generation in Piedmont. That comes through in wines that are increasingly pedigreed…As for the wines, they are positively stellar. The Nebbiolo harvest took place from October 6 to 21, on the later side for the year. Readers who have not discovered these wines owe it to themselves to do so. Not only are the wines brilliant, they also remain very fairly priced. 95-95 points
James Suckling: This is an aromatically bright Barolo, featuring aromas of dried flowers, mushrooms, earth and sliced strawberries. It is medium- to full-bodied, showing a very refined profile of vibrant fruit and a touch of concentration. The wine is precise and well knitted. It originates from Berri, in the highest part of La Morra. It is already a joy to taste, but better to wait until 2026. 95 points
Kerin O`Keefe: Made with grapes grown 370-430m above sea level in the MGA of the same name in La Morra, the 2021 Trediberri Berri is fragrant and already delicious. It opens with inviting aromas of ripe red cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and ground clove that follow through to the succulent palate. Lithe tannins provide seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Thanks to the great fruit and finesse, this is already drinking beautifully and will also offer years of fine sipping. Drink 2026–2036. 95 points
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