2021 Weingut Wohlmuth Sauvignon Blanc Ried Hochsteinriegl Grosse STK
2021 Weingut Wohlmuth Sauvignon Blanc Ried Hochsteinriegl Grosse STK $52.99 per bottle with shipping included on 6 bottles or more By the now, after three wildly popular offers of the Wohlmuth Sauvignons over the past two years, we shouldn’t have to write too long of an offer to get you up to speed. But when it’s Wohlmuth’s top wines- their Grand Crus- we do want to give them the justice they deserve. When one thinks of the world’s greatest Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, one imagines, first, the great wines of Pouilly-sur-Loire and Sancerre or, perhaps, an ageless Graves or transcendent dessert wine from Sauternes in Bordeaux. Then, of course, New Zealand’s best, and the stylish wines of Sonoma and Napa weigh in, as does, under the best circumstances, Chile and northeastern Italy. But Austria is seldom on the tips of anyone’s tongues, so to speak, for producing world class Sauvignon. This is, after all, the land of Riesling and Gruner Veltliner! But what if I were to tell you that some of the world’s most intriguing and exciting Sauvignons hale from one of the highest elevation vineyards in Austria, and has been producing great wine since 1803!? Such is the case in the tiny village of Kitzek im Sausal in Styria, near the country’s eastern border, where the Wohlmuth family has been producing Sauvignon and Riesling for over two hundred years. Wohlmuth's Styrian hillside vines sit markedly higher than those of their STK peers, ranking among the very steepest vineyards on earth. When touring the vines with Gerhard Wohlmuth there comes a point you are actually petrified to even walk the rows - Austria’s most dangerous downhill ski racing slope, aptly named "Strief," has an inclination of 85%. One of Wohlmuth’s sports an inclination of 90%. In fact, this tiny-production estate requires an unbelievable 95 vineyard workers to handle the viticulture here….all of them human although they might be part mountain goat as well. You won’t see any tractors. Wohlmuth picks his fruit very late here, and the harvest, as you can imagine, is all by hand, the grapes being picked virtually berry-by-berry. They are made as simply as can be- being fermented on their native yeast, aged in old casks and bottled just as they are. The wines, particularly from the Grand Cru Hochsteinriegl, are intense and concentrated, but also amazingly broad and expressive. Fans of names like Cotat, Dagueneau, Vacheron or Vatan will appreciate the purity and depth of fruit here as well as its noble austerity, relentless minerality and fine cut. And, while Sauvignons the world over now tip the scales at over 14% (often a lot higher), the natural alcohol, even at this level of maturity, is still 13.5%. Better still, while those aforementioned Loire Sauvignons now cost upwards of $75 a bottle (or more), the production of Wohlmuth’s Hochsteinriegl is still a relatively affordable $50 a bottle, though, we’re told, thanks to the attention these wines are attracting worldwide, it won’t remain this affordable for long. We have 36 bottles…. James Suckling: Super-fine yellow-grapefruit aromas – everything from the blossoms through the juice to the pith. From a 2-hectare, super-sleek monopole site with red-slate soil. Gigantic elegance and finesse! So much concentration packed into such a sleek and polished palate. Fermented and matured in used 500 and 600-liter used oak casks. Vegan. Sustainable. Drink from release. 96-97 points
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