2022 Alois Donna Paolina Greco di Tufo DOCG
Speaking of deals, Massimo Alois’ Greco di Tufo is one of the best values in southern Italian white we’ve seen in a while. While Alois’ own label is dedicated to the wonderful indigenous grapes from near the family’s redoubt in the hills north of Naples, he also has access to several organically-farmed vineyards located in the Avellino zone to the southeast of Campania. These are DOCG qualified grapes and, as such, have to be made into wine without leaving that zone, hence a separate winemaking facility named after the Contrada Marotta parcel of the Santa Paolina vineyard where the Greco, Fiano and Aglianico grapes the Aloises use are grown. Complicated pedigree aside, this is one of the most transparent, delicious expressions of the Greco grape we’ve seen. Traditionally a little richer and sometimes a lot lower in apparent acidity than Fiano, its oft-planted colleague, the 2022 Donna Paolina Greco is notable for its a pointe laser-like acidity and minerality which only serves to frame its thoroughly lovely, beautifully ripened fruit that runs to fresh apricot and pear with a hint of tropical and a hint of green almond all enlivened by fresh squeeze of a giant Campanian lemon. This is a fabulous glass of white all on its own but with the classic Caprese (maybe some of you have ripe tomatoes this year?) with good mozzarella, it’s a knockout! Personally, I am looking forward to pairing this with linguine with clams. Case-worthy.
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