2022 Bruno Giacosa Barbera d' Alba, Piemonte
Not every parcel in the Giacosas’ iconic Neive and Alba vineyards are suitable for growing Nebbiolo for their iconic Barbarescos and, on those few spots, for the most part located at the highest part of these sites, Barbera is the obvious choice. Here on the south- and southwest facing apex of these hills, Barbera is able to soak up the sun it so-much craves in order to develop its hallmark intensity and become the deep, dark, age-worthy red worthy of carrying the name Bruno Giacosa! The 2022 Barbera d’Alba is, in short, not your mama’s Barbera! It’s a smokin’ good wine- especially if you’re a lover of the grape’s more zaftig, plush side. The 2022 is preternaturally dark and dusky with a veritable black hole’s worth of concentrated black plum, dark cherry and mulberry fruit. There’s nothing lacy, floral or elegant about this wine - it’s intensely flavored, packed with fruit and gets it point across without anyone in the house being able to accuse of it of being anything but delicious, in-your-face Barbera! And there’s nothing wrong with that, especially in the hot summer months when the food coming off the grill is smoky, full-flavored and oh-so-primary. With a rack of hot-sweet glazed ribs? A giant Tomahawk steak with lots of ground pepper and smoky flavors? A grilled pork tenderloin stuffed with fennel pollen, fresh herbs and pancetta? A giant bowl of spaghetti and meatballs? Your best burger with all the fixings? This will stand up to it all, and, because it’s Barbera and not Zinfandel, say, there’s plenty of natural acidity to inspire you to go back for another glass. While I truly do love the more understated Barberas from Asti and other points north in Piemonte, there’s nothing quite like a stunning, mouth-filling 15% ABV Barbera d’Alba that’s not afraid to stand up tall and shout it out to the Alps! This is a must-try for all lovers of the grape.
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