One of the grandest of the Grand Maestri of Piemonte’s ‘Greatest Generation’ of wine pioneers, Bruno Giacosa only began bottling his own wine in the 1960s, but his legendary perfectionism in the cellar and amazing instincts with regards to growing his business came at a time where the region needed them most. By astutely purchasing parcels in the best vineyards in the area and making his wines with a meticulousness previously unheard of in the area, Giacosa turned his property into one of the few estates that resonated not only in northern Italy, but also throughout the world. Now in the hands of Bruno’s daughter Bruna, the Giacosa estate continues to set the highest bar possible for both distinction and quality. But there’s more to the Bruno Giacosa legacy than just his transcendent Barolos and Barbarescos. He was also a pioneer with the far more modest Arneis grape of Roero, making a dry, aromatic style that became a benchmark while others were either vinifying the grape sweet or simply abandoning it altogether. Giacosa was also one of the first to recognize the quality of the Nebbiolo fruit grown on the Valmaggiore hill near the Roero town of Vezza d’Alba. Finding the small sign that leads you up the dusty road to the Valmaggiore vineyard isn’t easy, but once you get there, it’s plain to see it’s the one cru on the Roero side of the river that can match any in Barolo or Barbaresco for orientation, slope and even soil. In fact, it’s the one vineyard in the entire region that boasts more farmers from the Barolo-Barbaresco side of the river than its own. Its vertiginous vines are farmed by the likes of Luciano Sandrone, Marco Marengo, Ferruccio Grimaldi, the Brovias and, of course, the Giacosas. The Nebbiolo grown on the sandier, pebblier soils here is capable of producing a more diaphanous, dare I say Burgundian, side of the grape and with the Giacosa’s propensity to make wines on more elegant, polished side of the scale, it makes for a perfect fit. The warm but nuanced 2022 vintage, however, had other plans and created one of the best Valmaggiores we’ve tasted to date. It’s a vintage that shows the attributes of Nebbiolo in fine relief without the need to cellar it for a long period or decant aggressively even though there is a ton of stuffing here and the structure to last a very, very long time. Aromatic, charming, complex and, like all wines from this cellar, very fresh and precise, this is annually this is a wine that marries the gravitas of a Giacosa Barolo with the elegance and finesse possible at higher altitude and finer soils. Buy it to drink now- for sure- but do buy enough to hold some a few for a few years too. We had a 2005 Giacosa Valmaggiore around Christmas last year that was just splendid! Very highly recommended. 

James Suckling: This is very serious for the appellation, with pure cherry, bark and walnut character as well as a hint of dark chocolate. Medium-bodied, firm and focused, with integrated tannins and a long and flavorful finish. 95 points

Wine Advocate: The Bruno Giacosa 2022 Nebbiolo d'Alba Vigna Valmaggiore opens to bright cherry flavors and a pretty ruby color. The wine shows great fruit intensity, and there is a note of candied cherry that really pops in this vintage. It is especially fruity and bright. This is considered a hot vintage, but Bruna Giacosa tells me that it did not spark the same stress levels that vintners suffered in the more challenging 2023 vintage. Harvest occurred on the 4th and 5th of October, before the rain started. The fruit is generous and primary, and the wine ends with mildly chalky tannins. 93 points