2022 Colli di Lapio Romano Clelia Fiano Di Avellino
Clelia Romano’s broad, aromatic and complete Fiano d’Avellino continues to make scores of new friends consistently here in PRIMA Vini. Long a fixture in our late restaurant’s by-the-glass program where it was featured as a staple for many years, one fan was the owner of particularly famous maker of Sonoma County Pinot and Chardonnay. He drank bottle after bottle at lunch at PRIMA and usually took a case or even two of it home with him. “We sure can’t make wine that tastes like this in the Russian River,’ he used to moan. “Next to Montrachet (and my own), this is my favorite white wine!” Clelia Romano’s Colli di Lapio (the appropriately named ‘hill of wolves’) sits at the highest point in the Avellino appellation and affords one a stunning view of Campania while the grapes grown on this windy hillside seem to suck up all the wild fennel, mint and other flora that pops out from between the volcanic rocks that litter the landscape. Aromatic, rich and expressive, here is the very essence of these hills in every bottle, and its richness and sheer personality redefines everything we thought we knew about the Fiano grape. A grilled piece of very fresh tuna in a brodo of fish fumet and Calabrian chili on the beach of Positano was my first experience with this amazing wine, and when Chef Peter paired it with his spicy tuna carpaccio, it brought me right back to that very special place. It’s a serious wine with a sunny side that you can enjoy as an aperitivo today. It can also age as well as it drinks now- and that’s amazingly well! Very highly recommended!
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