100% Carricante, unoaked.

The Cusumano brothers Diego and Alberto, already well-known for their winemaking success in other parts of Sicily, finally completed their long search for a piece of Mount Etna in 2013, when they acquired three small contrade on the northern slope of the volcano. Calling the estate Alta Mora after the ‘high, black’ volcanic soils sitting at nearly 4,000 feet altitude, they set about creating a micro-production facility purpose-built to handmake small amounts of wine from the indigenous varieties like Carricante and Nerello Mascalese they farmed and, in so doing, established themselves as one of the top wineries on the mountain.

This Etna Bianco is a classic case where the better the farming, the simpler the winemaking, and the simpler the winemaking, the more complex the final result. Fermented under temperature control and aged for only four months in tank, it impresses with its elegant ‘weighty without weight’ feel on the palate, the lacy delineation of its aromatics and the clarity with which its volcanic roots show. Those unfamiliar with Carricante can equate it, weight-wise, with Sauvignon Blanc but without the greenness of that variety. Rather, its aromatics have a nice (as in not ‘too’) florality and a pronounced saltiness, like it was grown near the Adriatic Coast rather than 4,000 feet high atop a volcano. Beautifully textured, it’s sneakily rich with a little bit of Chantilly cream to go with all that citrus, green-tinged herb and crushed rock. Juicy, fresh and really satisfying, it’s a really delightful drink!

Linguine alle vongole on the menu? Grilled halibut? A salad rich in fresh herbs and refreshing citrus dressing? Nothing at all? This could be your new favorite wine! This is an excellent price!

James Suckling, 93 points: Notes of ripe apples and pears with spices, chamomile and a stony minerality to it. Medium-bodied, sleek and polished with juicy acidity and delicious fruit. Layered and characterful. Drink now or hold. 

Wine Enthusiast, 92 points: The nose is defined by light, floral aromas of yellow apple, pear, lemon and white flowers, while warm, stony undertones provide balance. The palate is citrus-forward, with the tree-fruit elements also enduring, before a faintly nutty, salty finish that gets a gentle boost from easygoing acid.