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Montagny is white wine territory. It’s even, arguably, more famous than its neighbor Rully to the north for the quality of its Chardonnay but, because much of the vineyard land is controlled by the large negociants, like Rully, very little of the actual domaine bottled stuff makes it our way. The wines tend to be richer, slightly less severe than Rullys from Domaine de La Folie, and more appealing to those who appreciate a bit more texture and volume in their white Burgundy; I’m oversimplifying it by saying Montagny is Meursault to Rully’s Chassagne. With the bit of the extra inspiration provided by the Gouges winemaking team, the results from this new project are wonderful!

We have in our hands the debut vintage, an outstanding 2022. Aromatic of jasmine, green tea, lemon curd and fresh pear, the Gouges have always employed a more restrained approach to their winemaking, eschewing high levels of extraction and the use of new wood—an approach that suits this white to a tee. The natural richness of Montagny’s Chardonnay is balanced nicely by its natural acidity, allowing the fresher, more mineral side of the wine to reveal itself in a zippy, limestone-tinged finish. In other words, here is a white Burgundy that shows both its classic pedigree and unique terroir at what we think, given the current state of Burgundy pricing, a very fair price.
 
We have 6 cases of the 2022 on our allocation and the 2023 is right behind it.