It could be argued that Pommard is Volnay’s “evil twin”—barely a mile away, yet known for prodigious power and sometimes gnarly tannins where Volnay trades in lilting aromatics and grace. But I’ve often argued that, with a bit of maturity and in hands that know how to handle its native rusticity, a great Pommard will best a great Volnay any day! It’s simply a matter of style—and there is something so quintessentially and irresistibly Burgundy about it.

 

Few understand that balance better than Domaine de Courcel, the 400-year-old family estate whose holdings include some of the appellation’s most iconic terroirs. Their wines are known to possess a touch more finesse than is typical for Pommard, yet remain remarkable windows into the soul of the appellation.

 

The best way to know Courcel is through their absolutely stunning Bourgogne Rouge. From 40+ year-old Pinot Noir vines just outside Pommard, grown in the same limestone-flecked soils as the more exalted sites, it delivers a very Pommard-like wine at a much more accessible price. There is a greater emphasis on darker, more forward fruit and markedly less tannin, making it perfect for drinking now!

 

Mulberry-leaning fruit, lovely brambly herbal notes and a whisper of piney forest floor lead to a ripe, finely textured finish. A recent bottle, enjoyed over three days with nothing more than a cork in its neck, only got better with air.

 

This is a must-have to drink now or over the next five to seven years and, perhaps, the best way to fall in love with Burgundy. Be careful, though. Falling in love with Burgundy can be a very dangerous proposition!