2022 Domaine Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc Cotes d'Or Vieilles Vignes
Pedigree counts for a lot in Burgundy wine, and when your name is Jobard and you live in Meursault, it counts even more! For a domaine whose wines have been called ‘a sensual tour of rock and vine,’ expectations have always been high, and Remi is, after all, the son of Charles and the nephew of Francois, two of the most legendary Burgundy wine names. But Remi, since taking over the family domaine in 1996, has done nothing but enhance the pedigree of the family’s holdings. He started by converting his farming fully to certified organic. Taking just over a decade to complete, this was no easy feat for those days. And no one in Burgundy has a better reputation for making ‘straight’ Bourgogne Blanc wine than Remi. All sourced in either Puligny, Meursault, or both, his Bourgogne Blanc cuvees are vivid expressions of terroir and very fine entrants into the Jobard pantheon. Take the Bourgogne Cotes d’Or, a cuvee of six different parcels right below the village of Meursault. With an average age over 45, these Chardonnay vines know well how to effortlessly produce great white wine, and Remi modestly claims his job is to simply stay out of their way. Raised in exactly the same manner as his iconic Premier Cru Meursaults, the grapes are fermented on their own yeasts and aged half in small barrels (a portion of which are new) and the rest in older foudre, double-sized barrels. Remi says his 2022s are ‘very rich and concentrated with good power’ but there is plenty of energy too- a nice lemon verbena quality that adds lift and verve to what’s really an impressively weighty Bourgogne Blanc with gravitas and class. A more vivid window into the soul of Meursault (without paying for Meursault) we can’t imagine. Clean, mineral-driven acidity drives a palate rich with yellow cherry, lemon curd, Asian pear and spice. Mouthfilling yet fresh, it’s a full-bodied white wine that will do excellent service alongside crabs and other kinds of shellfish, richer fish dishes or just a lovely, runny Epoisses! Sure. There are a lot of Bourgogne Blanc appellation wines costing a lot less out there but, I say, there is also a lot of Meursault costing twice as much not nearly as good! Only three cases. Enjoy!
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