2022 Domaine Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly Fuisse “Ampelopsis”
I got into a lot of trouble the other day when I didn’t make it clear that there is very little of a particular wine to go around. This is, again, unfortunately the case. I have only 24 bottles of this to spread- less, actually, when you take into account that I am definitely buying a few for myself.
The winery, of course, needs no introduction here. Saumaize-Michelin is the gold standard for top level wines in the Macon region of southern Burgundy, especially in Pouilly-Fuisse. These are stylish, super well-made whites that brim with character, intensity and, as we’re finding out, the potential to be very long lived. All of the cuvees here are single vineyards, either from top lieu dits or some of Pouilly-Fuisse’s prized Premier Crus. They do, however, make one Reserve-style blend- one wine made only from the very best barrels in the cellar. Called Amelopsis, it’s meant to be the top wine in the cellar. And, with Saumaize-Michelin, that’s saying something! Cellared for two years, the first in wood barrels (a portion of which are new) and the second, in small concrete egg-shaped containers that allow for a bit of oxygenation without any additional wood nuances, it comes out as a complete, fully integrated, ready to rock-and-roll bottle of Pouilly-Fuisse. A lot of Macon wines these days accentuate the minerality of their vineyards at the expense of texture and that is not the case here. Ampelopsis is quite full, even a bit creamy, on the palate, with gorgeous fruit and a rich, silky texture. But, make no mistake about it, the finish is pure Macon- almond-y, citrusy and very much redolent of the crushed stone on which it is grown. This is a very grown-up wine for the Macon and very much worth the trouble to get the small amount that comes to the United States each vintage. Drink now or keep for an additional ten years if you can.
First come, first served, as they say. Sorry it’s only a couple of cases…….
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