While traveling around the Marches a few years ago, I made note of the producers we saw on wine lists at the best enotecas and brought bottles back to sample at our Airbnb near the coast. We found some real gems during our ‘studies,’ none better than the wines of Fattoria Coroncino. Here was Verdicchio in a major scale—texture, verve and pizazz! Further research revealed that Coroncino is one of the most legendary artisanal producers in all of Castelli di Jesi (YEH-zee). The winery, founded by Lucio and Fiorella Canestrari in 1981, is in Staffolo, ground zero for the best vineyards in the Jesi zone. Organic since the beginning, and now biodynamic, Lucio’s son Valerio continues to produce some of the most coveted Verdicchios, the majority of which are consumed locally in the region’s best restaurants.

A Coroncino wine, I have found, is always intense, vibrant and very expressive with gobs and gobs of flavor, but we especially loved the Il Bacco bottling, a cuvée known for its stunning acidity and staying power. Almond paste, spice and a whiff of tropical fruit come together to make an impressive, full-bodied and fun-to-drink white that tastes great all on its own but will come alive with grilled fish, game or poultry. It proved a wonder with the local Jesi lasagna dish called vincisgrassi, and no white I know goes better with truffle dishes!

By the way, this 2022, at nearly four years past the harvest, is only now hitting its stride! If you’re like us and prefer wines with a bit of maturing and fully developed character, this is one to add to the larder!