PRIMA’s 2024 Wine Of The Year

Winemaker Gian Luca Colombo is a force of nature- one of the most passionate, cerebral and intense guys you’ll ever meet.  From his tiny family vineyard and winery in Roddi, parked amongst the vines of Ambroggio, that commune’s only registered MGA, he lovingly and biodynamically tends his vines, makes a miniscule bit of eponymous wine, and runs a winemaking and farming consulting business allowing him to work with a score of far-better-known, far larger properties.  A native of the area and a graduate of the Scuola Enologica in Alba, he’s forgotten more about farming and making wine in the Langhe region than most of us will ever know!  Part scientist, part farmer, Gian Luca is, indeed, part of a new generation of talented winegrowers committed to changing the landscape of wine production in the Langhe to accentuate sustainability, a ‘natural’ approach and quality over quantity and commercialism.  His own wines are studied, precise and carefully made, yet possess a personality, soul and inner life all their own.  The wine he calls ‘NU,’ is typical, yet atypical, of the Colombo style.  NU means ‘no’ in local dialect and that’s what he’s screaming on the label; as in ‘NO, I won’t bottle a wine like this, no matter how many times you ask.’  But he did.  Normally a fastidious winemaker, the idea of blending a kitchen sink blend was anathema, but, as it turned out, a pretty good idea as it gives us all a Colombo wine in a less serious, easier going vein.  Made from Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo grown on his farm in Roddi, the secret ingredient is a large, delightful dollop (in 2022, 25%) of Pinot Nero grown in Sinio.  Pinot is a grape that Colombo loves and bottles separately and is a big favorite here at PRIMA.  (Those who have stayed with Denise at Castello di Sinio might have walked right past this vineyard- or through it, maybe- when jogging or strolling up past the barking German Shepherds on the Montelupo road right outside the castello gate.)  Gian Luca hard harvests everything at their optimal moments of ripeness and ferments the fruit on their native yeasts, keeping the varieties separate until he arrives at a blend he likes, subsequently aging the finished wine for a few months in the large Austrian casks he favors and releasing it another two months later, unfined and unfiltered and ready to go.  This is sort of wine everyone needs to have in the larder.  Dark and fragrant, it’s juicy, snappy, full of flavor and a ton of fun to drink.  Served a bit cool from the fridge, it’s a clean, zingy wine that will cut through your beef tartare and pre-dinner cheeses and salumis like a vinous knife.  (Proven just yesterday at Belotti!)  Served warmer from the cellar, it’s a pasta- or burger-friendly red that might be just perfect while you’re parked on the sofa in front of that table full of ribs and wings while you watch the Big Game this Sunday.  (At least that’s my plan) Bottled in liters, because a mere 750 milliliters won’t be enough, it’s sealed with a crown cap so you can get at its succulent contents even faster.  A case of this won’t be enough…….