2022 Marcel et Blanche Fèvre 'Fevre Fevre' Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru
There’s something about that Fevre name! This branch of the first family of Chablis is that of William’s cousin Nathalie who, for decades, was the winemaker at the famous La Chablisienne , and her husband Gilles, whose father and grandfather were presidents of that high-quality cooperative. Theirs has become the best-regarded of that august lineage with holdings in the tenderloin of the appellation that are really second to none. Their winemaking is widely considered as some of the most inspired this side of Dauvissat and Raveneau. They do a number of bottlings of each cru they farm under several different designations including the Fevre-Fevre label, an homage to Fevre ancestors Marcel and Blanche. Regardless of which bottling you find, Nathalie et Gilles or Fevre-Fevre, the contents are the same- top-quality Chablis from some of the very best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in the appellation. The 2022 vintage we already know is a knockout, producing wines with plenty of that classic mineral snap that has been missing from Chablis during this spate of warmer harvests. It’s a Chablis lovers’ vintage that is garnering a ton of attention in the press. We have 36 bottles of the Fevre-Fevre Premier Cru Vaulorent to offer this time. The Vaulorent vineyard is the one Chablis Premier Cru vineyard that actually shares the same hillside formation as all the Chablis Grand Crus and sits on the southern end of the Fourchaume group of 1ers, and just north of the Grand Cru Preuses, the Grand Cru we have on offer. The wines produced from Vaulorent are widely considered to be some of the best of the Chablis Premier Cru, often achieving Grand Cru-level richness but with scads of the siphoned-through-chalk mineral we so crave in these wines. It’s also the rarest of the Fevre family Premier Crus and, at almost half the price of the Grand Cru Preuses, there’s not that much, truthfully, that separates the two. But, then again, there are times where you want the extra pizazz that you’ll get with a Grand Cru the caliber of the Fevres’ Les Preuses. While there’s a price attached to true Chablis nobility, this one truly earns it. Les Preuses gets its name from ‘rvoie pierreuse’ or ‘stony road.’ Over the centuries, ‘la pierreuse’ became ‘la peruse,’ and is a direct reference to the vineyard’s stoniness. The wines, indeed, are the most mineral driven in Chalis, often combining richness with minerality in an amazing, ravishing fashion. In 2022, it is, for us, the pick of the Fevre-Fevre litter. Whichever of these two you choose (and we recommend choosing a few each of both), you’re getting Classic Chablis made by a Classic Producer in a Classic Vintage. How about that Coquilles St. Jacques you’ve been meaning to make? Or, just as good, Premier Cru Chablis and a perfectly roasted chicken with lemon and herbs is one of the best combinations we can imagine! Cellar indefinitely…..
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