2022 Oddero Barbera d'Alba
Not to be confused with their earthier, more mineral-driven (and altogether more concentrated) Nizza Barbera, the Odderos fashion an ultra-pleasing, slurp-worthy, savory Barbera d’Alba from two vineyards aged between 20 and 35 years, one in La Morra and the other in Castiglione Falletto. Winemakers Mariacristina Oddero and Luca Veglio ferment the juice in stainless steel tanks and age it for a year in 50-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels producing all of 12,000 bottles (not cases!) from a given vintage. 2022 was a hot, drought-ridden harvest that, while proving tough on most other wine grapes, really favored the sun-craving Barbera creating wines with even more stuffing, flavor and definition that usual, superb examples of why we love this grape in the first place. Aged for 16 months in large neutral casks, the Odderos’ 2022 weighs in at a modest 14% ABV while others we’ve seen can tip the scales at nearly 16. We appreciate that extra bit of restraint even though the wine is still dark as pitch and packed with dark, dusky fruit. This is everything one could ask for in a food-flexible, absolutely-delicious-with-anything-and-anyone red! The compact, nicely articulated fruit is cool- like blackberry- with a hint of desiccated blueberry, black plum, hoisin and hints of black licorice, freshly shoveled earth and a bit flinty mineral at the end. With all of the great acidity this grape is known for, it’s remarkably well balanced and just perfect for dishes like meaty, earthy tomato-based pastas, mushroom pizzas, pork ribs, and smoked meats. But if there’s one thing we learned while pouring previous vintages by the glass here at PRIMA, this wine drinks extraordinarily well all on its own! What a great red to have in your wine arsenal for any occasion!
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