2022 Peter Veyder-Malberg Riesling 'Elsarner Brandstatt'
They say that the best wines in the world always reflect the character of the person who made them, and that couldn’t be truer than the wines of Peter Veyder-Malberg. Peter is one of the most intense, focused and visionary winemakers we’ve ever met, and his wines are as much for contemplation as they are for hedonistic enjoyment—they are jaw-dropping.
As hands-on as possible, he spends almost all his waking hours communing with his incredibly steep, rocky walled vineyard in the Spitzer Graben that is one of the highest and coldest spots in all of Austria’s Wachau. The long-abandoned south-facing Brandstatt vineyard he rebuilt and reinvigorated is truly a regal vineyard that catches a few hours of late-day sunshine enabling his grapes to ripen under extreme conditions.
His 2022 Brandstatt is a remarkable achievement. Go ahead, open it and leave it open for a few weeks and it won’t even start to deteriorate. It’s like someone took all the descriptors for great Austrian Riesling and reduced them to their pure essences and crammed them into this one bottle. Oh my goodness. This can age for decades!
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